I have one of those "Instant Near Boiling" under sink water heaters. The faucet has begun dripping nonstop though.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mAfzx2WxWzYofVLz6

It drips when the water heater itsself is unplugged and not heating water. Of course it stops when I cut off the water supply.

Anyone have any experience with these faucets and know where the secret failure point is?

I have an 18x13 shop. We have done a lot of work on our house in the last year and have more projects slated. The shop had insulation put in before we moved in, but nothing over the studs(open rafters too). I think I have settled on putting osb, then 5/8 fire drywall on the walls, probably some cheap paint too. I only need drywall on one wall because it's 3ft from the property line and while I don't care too much, we do plan to sell at some point. For that reason and the cleaner look at realistically about an extra $100-$200, I figured that I should just drywall all walls and then do a quick and dirty mud job over. Any suggestions from people who've done it? Seems like a pretty nice idea to me, custom hanging stuff wherever I want, impact resistance, etc.

I need to add protrusions for various vents, disconnects, etc. in my renovation and I’m planning to use PVC mounting blocks cut from a plank of Azek.

I want to know if there is a minimally invasive approach to protecting the sheathing given that I eventually want to replace all existing Tyvek and siding. Lots of problems with water tightness and flashing particularly with my windows as I’m seeing rotted sheathing, not to mention I have to eventually replace bottom plates and sill plates which are rotted from decades of sitting concrete slab.

I know you’re supposed to overlap your Tyvek and flashing tape in such a way that water will bead down but I don’t see a practical way of doing that without removing damn near every piece of siding, which is nailed at both the bottom and the top of every plank by the way. Do I need Tyvek behind my PVC blocks or can I just run rows of flashing tape behind it with a slight couple inches of “border“ past the block, such that I can tape new Tyvek over this border in a picture frame fashion later on?

ur family recently purchased a Goliath Ignite 60” in-ground hoop. After seeing professional install prices, I’ve decided to DIY this. I’ve consulted YouTube University for guidance on all the steps, and feel comfortable about everything except for install location to account for overhang. Since I’m dealing with concrete and something permanent, I want to make sure I do it right.

General consensus is that 2-4’ of overhang is considered ideal, and 2’ of overhang is the minimum for safety and convenience. This is even according to the manufacturer’s website.

What I’m struggling with is with the rim at 10’ height, overhang on this hoop is listed as 26”. So that only leaves me with 2” of wiggle room until I breach the minimum threshold of 2’ overhang.

But then I have to consider that the install hole is supposed to be dug 16x16”, and the hoop pole is 4x4”. So if I center the 4x4 pole in the 16x16 concrete form, AND I dig the hole right up against the driveway, now I’m down to 20” max overhang.

And now consider that it is not recommended to pour the concrete form right up against the driveway, so let’s leave 2” of grass/dirt between them, now I’m down to 18” max overhang.

Am I stupid? Is my thought process flawed? Or it is impossible to create the 2’ minimum overhang with this hoop?

Thanks for reading!

Having trouble deciding whether to do it myself or hire someone. I have a good amount of carpentry, painting and hanging wall. But windows? Not really.
Any specific suggestions or ideas?

I recently purchased a tiara/crown as part of a Halloween costume I’m creating. The crown has a small light, powered by one AAA battery with a switch that powers the light. The light only blinks when turned on and id like to see if I can make some adjustments so it’s static instead of blinking. Is this something I can accomplish with a few small tools?

I can certainly post photos and product information as needed.

Hi all,

I've got a GE Café CT9800SH2SS combination wall oven with the microwave on top, and I'm trying to figure out what to troubleshoot before I start taking things apart.

For about a month, it's had an intermittent issue where it clicks and gives me a door-open warning even though the door is closed. Now it's gotten to the point where I can't get it to start at all. Until this morning, it worked about half the time ("trying again" or "waiting a few minutes then trying again" usually got it to work), but now it will not start. When I press Start, I hear clicking, and the display says “Pause — Door Open.” At times, the interior light stays on and the central spinner keeps moving (not microwaving, though). I've tried shutting the power off to let things reset, but no dice.

I've also tried manually realigning the door, but I don't think that's the issue. I'm going to clean around the latch openings, but I don't see anything obviously broken. One thing I noticed is that the right-side latch opening has a springy piece that moves when I push it, while the left side doesn't seem to have anything like that. The AI tells me that the two sides may have different mechanisms/functions, so that may not mean anything. I think the computer sensors are on the left side.

I'm comfortable doing DIY repairs and getting into the unit if needed. From what I've found, it looks like the door-sensing switch or one of the interlock switches could be the problem, but I haven't confirmed that.

A couple of questions:

• Does this sound like a failing door switch, latch assembly, or something else? (Specifically interested in how it was first doing it occasionally, then intermittently, now constantly.)
• Is there a way to narrow down which component is failing before ordering parts?
• Has anyone worked on this particular model or a similar GE Café/Advantium combination unit? I'm trying to confirm the best way to access the door switches. It looks like the upper microwave section can slide forward separately from the lower oven. Though, when I start tugging on it, the whole thing tips forward (it is not screwed into the surrounding cabinets!).

Appreciate any advice from people who've worked on these! Oh, and I'm the first owner and we've had it ~8 years.

We had a steam shower installed last fall when we redid our bathroom. (I know now there are caveats about installing these due to maintenance, but it is what it is now.) We have hard water and were not told how frequently we're supposed to flush these, so it's already full of scale and not working. *sigh *

It's still under warranty, so the manufacturer will send us a refurbished unit and will pay $250 for labor by an authorized person, but the plumber is quoting me $500.

A couple of questions:

This seems pretty straightforward to replace ourselves, but I'm wondering if I'm maybe missing something key in doing this. (It would also probably void our future warranty.) Has anyone done this before and have any tips?

Second, is it possible to open up the unit and descale at home? Thermasol will replace it now, but they said this will continue to happen in the future, and we'll need to send it in for descaling. Could we do that ourselves?

Third, could we install an inline filter to help reduce the scaling? Would this interfere with the operation of the unit?

Thanks for any advice!

This one might be a newish question. I am having my garage built into a small adu space with a loft. The drywallers installed drywall on the floor in the loft. Feels like we shouldn't do that. I wanted to put the same flooring up there as the rest of the space.

https://imgur.com/a/4xPV1RO

Would it be recommended to remove that or does it matter?

Update: It is over very sturdy Plywood. It was a mistake, confirmed by builder. They will remove.

A bit embarrassing, but we had a window fall out a couple years ago due to an ac window unit and we were finally able to get it replaced today. (Yay!)
It was boarded up and there was mold on the windowsill under the board when we took it off. I scrubbed it really well with vinegar and I don’t see any more.
What is my next step? Ideally I’d buy mold/mildew primer but it’s $70/gallon at the store near me. I do have a gallon of lead encapsulating paint, and a gallon of regular interior paint. Can I use either of these? Or is the $70 mold/mildew primer my only option?

I have a few areas in my house where when I slightly press or kick it’s bouncy?

I want to put in a fence in my backyard. Im in new england. It looks like the frost depth is 48inches. I only want the fence to be 4 feet high total. It seems a bit much to dig 4 feet to set a 4 foot fence. Its wood posts with the fancy chicken wire stapled on. Maybe I would run some wood along the top and bottom edge. Total fence is about 200 feet, its a straight line to bridge between an axisting fence and the house.

Is a 48 inch dig really necessary?

I've moved into my newly build house in 2025. But as you might expect, there are still a pile of open DIY tasks (ranging from small details to larger projects). Until now I've always created overviews of tasks in my head and one written to-do list. Curious to hear if anyone has positive experience with online / app solutions for this topic.

I'm currently in the phase where I notice that I forget some of the tasks, until I walk by and notice a cable hanging out of the wall, or a skirting board missing in a corner. So looking for solutions that can help me create and keep the overview. Curious to hear your experiences.

I'm not familiar with this type of siding that is wrapped around the wood window frame.

Home is a 1950s post and beam construction. Original single pane floor to ceiling window encased in a wood window frame. The siding is peeling away and slowly further disintegrating from sun exposure. How to approach starting this kind of repair?

https://imgur.com/a/mnsHbdp

Edit: I'm silly and it's paint peeling.

I have a very long (1000 ft.) driveway that was redone with RAP around 10 years ago. In general, the driveway has held up remarkably well. However, there are just a couple of spots where potholes seem to form. I have regraded over those spots, but they reappear after a few months. I spoke to the paving company that did it, but they won’t address these spots alone and want $5K to redo then entire section(s) of the driveway. Any way to DIY this?

Hello! I recently moved into a rental and a few of the windows have pretty bad mildew/mold on the window gaskets (I think that's what the white strips are? or is it caulk?)

How hard would it be to replace the white strips entirely? I tried cleaning one of them with a couple different cleaners that were recommended on this subreddit, but I think the mold is pretty deep in there.

I know I'm supposed to just ask the landlord to deal with it but for reasons I don't want to get into, I can't really do that. Thank you for any help.

I have a security door. It opens towards a window. I attached a stop on the bottom of the door. It has rusted. I can't find one rated for outdoor use. Security doors don't have removable hinges. Or is one of the interior stops solid enough for outdoor use? Or can I coat one with something?

I have three Stud Finder and a magnet - stud buddy, Franklin, and zircon. They worked on every other wall, but on the wall, I am trying to hang a few heavy things on, they don’t seem to work well.

There are constantly going off and the live wire warning keeps coming on all of them. I have also tried the deep scan feature.

1. Any tips on why this could be happening?
2. My magnets are only catching midway through the wall and not catching anything on the upper 2/3 or the bottom 2/3 of the wall. Is that a fluke?
3. I opened my receptacle and I see a aluminum thing outside my receptacle. See picture.

What could be the problem?

I decided to make myself some tote rack benches. In the process I ended up making a website to generate the layout. It’s free. Really. No logins no upsells.

Hope it comes in handy for someone

Checkout https://toterackplanner.com/

Καλησπέρα έχω συρτάρι που έχει χαλάσει το ξύλο στα σημεία που βιδώνει ο οδηγός, πως μπορώ να το
επιδιορθώσω; Διάβασα για στόκο ξύλου, θα δουλέψει;

My tub has looked like this for years. Even with a fresh cleaning it stays yellow and stained besides being worn.

https://imgur.com/a/RR3MjLA

I doubt my landlord would do anything unless really necessary seeing as how it looked like this when I moved in. Any suggestions on ways to make this look at least a little bit better?

TLDR: Need to do a closet reno and looking for a way to create plans free online to diy it. Little to no experience but a lot of crafty confidence.

The wire shelving in our closet is starting to pop out of the wall. We've had custom quotes and looked at Ikea. Unfortunately most things are too $$$ or just don't fit right. The closet itself is big but apparently not big enough for more than a few PAX units.

How does one go about making plans online (for free) for a build like this? I've got a drill and a lot of craft know-how. I've seen a lot of videos on how to actually do it but no one explains how to get the correct dimensions/plans. I'll probably have the wood pre-cut at Home Depot or rent the tools to do it myself.

Image 1 - https://imgur.com/a/KIw3uCh

Image 2 - https://imgur.com/a/QmSMEpb

Image 3 - https://imgur.com/a/PzzEoRw

Image 4 - https://imgur.com/a/Dcp9cjl

Image 5 - https://imgur.com/a/L0yRpE8

Image 6 - https://imgur.com/a/rWGPQTm

Recently I had to get rid of a few of my wooden wall-mounted shelves in the basement - Image 2 & Image 3. This was not because they were proving inadequate at doing their job but because...

...in Image 2's case, they were no longer needed and I wanted to move a large item (a big safe) in the place the shelves would have initially been, and...

...in Image 3's case, they were set up in an incredibly awkward way and had become gross-looking.

All of that said, I still want to have shelving in the location shown in Image 1. This is the location that used to have the shelving setup shown in Image 3, but with the shelf track of the shelving setup of Image 2.

As specified in the title, I want to put either wall-mounted shelving there or standing shelving. Before you give me your opinions and recommendations I feel it is necessary to give you all the necessary information - measurements, equipment that I have, miscellaneous details that might be of importance, my specific desires, etc:

1. Regardless of whether the shelves are standing or wall-mounted, I want it to be WIRE shelving, similar to what is shown on the far-right side of Image 1. I figure such shelving would be less likely to absorb grime overtime.

2. If you are wondering why the shelf track in Image 1 is farther apart at the top and then closer together at the bottom that is just because I needed a place to put this track for the time being and so I decided to just screw them into the already existing holes in the wall. They were already cut like that to begin with, though I have no idea why. This, unfortunately, results in the odd site that you see here, but it is my intention to drill more holes to accomodate the lower smaller pieces of the track so that they align with the larger pieces.

In other words, I want the entire track to be 29 1/2 inches apart, as shown in Image 1.

1. I would prefer, if you believe I should stick to wall-mounted, that the shelves not come with their own track but can instead fit into this current track. If that is an impossibility then so be it, but I assume it would save me some money to not have the track included with whatever I buy.

2. I would like for the shelves to have either the dimensions shown on Image 5 or Image 6.

In the case of Image 5, these shelf dimensions were measured in a way that takes into account the fact that a wooden pillar stands in the way of the shelf fully extending outward.

In the case of Image 6, these shelf dimensions were measured acknowledging the possibility that there might be some shelves that are constructed in such a way as to accomodate certain blockages standing in the way.

It's likely that nobody makes anything with such specific and warped dimensions, but I would also appreciate suggestions for shelving that is 22.5 x 43 inches but made of a material that, while strong, is not immune to a bolt cutter taking a bit off of it so that it can conform to my preferred dimensions, the dimensions of Image 6.

1. As shown in Image 4, the shelf brackets that come with this shelf track are 12 inches long. There are 12 of these in total, for the purposes of supporting 6 shelves (2 for each shelf, of course). I assume that is not an adequate length to support shelves of the dimensions that I wish for - shown on Image 5 and Image 6 - but I am not positive. It is most likely that I would just have to get new and longer shelf brackets but I would still like people's thoughts on the matter.

I'd say that about sums everything up. Sorry if I made this post more complicated than it needs to be and if anyone needs any more details or has some questions please feel free to ask.

Thank you.