on an iPhone with a prepaid US carrier. I have blocked close to 1,906 numbers at this point — I keep blocking every new one as it arrives — and it has not slowed down at all. Some hours I get one an hour. Every message comes from a number I’ve never seen, so the block list does nothing.

What I’ve already done:

• Blocked 1,906 individual numbers
• Never replied to any of them
• Never clicked a link in any of them

What I’m asking:

1. Is there anything beyond “Screen Unknown Senders” and “Filter Spam” on iOS that actually cuts the volume instead of just hiding it?
2. Does forwarding to 7726 and using Report Junk make a real difference over months, or is it pointless?
3. Do third-party SMS filter apps work, and is any of them worth paying for?
4. Is there a carrier-side filter I should be calling and asking them to enable?
5. For anyone who got out of this: did it ever actually stop, or did you have to change your number?

At 1,906 blocks I’ve clearly hit the limit of what blocking can do. Any help appreciated.

I don’t understand—every time I format and reinstall Windows on this PC, it ends up being automatically activated using my (retail) serial key, and my entire purchase history from the Microsoft Store over the years remains linked to it.

What do I need to do to ensure it no longer activates using that license?

Will the new owner need to purchase a separate license and activate it during the installation process?

Thank you very much.

I just bought a Dell precision 7560 refurbished from Ebay from the seller Wisetek Market. I turned it on and immediately got the blue Windows repair screen. I have very little experience with computers and attempted to follow this tutorial to solve the problem.

https://youtu.be/U1vOG9Ib5mg?si=AIIGs3joK2MrjeEv

None of the solutions fixed the problem and after the last one, I'm now stuck on this white screen and have even less idea what to do. It says "One-Time boot settings" "Support the boot flow for the Windows recovery tool" the service tag GOVY3K3, bios revision 1.41.1 and has a few options.

I really don't want to have to return this device but I'm even more worried that I've done something to make it worse. Please give me advice.

I have a blackmagic hyperdeck shuttle 2 and I’ve been looking for a compatible ssd for a month now. The hyperdeck shuttle 2 is an older pro res recorder using SATA III drives but the two I’ve come across don’t work.

No1- SanDisk SDSSDP-128gb
( doesn’t work because it is too slow for the recorder)

No2- Samsung 850 Pro 256gb
( doesn’t even read plugged into my pc, forget trying to work it with the recorder)

I was told by another user to up the storage capacity as the write speeds were too low for the 128gb model, which I can see happening.

Issue is the higher capacity Samsung drive won’t even open on my desktop, do you guys think the drive is faulty and does anyone know for certain which drives are compatible with this blackmagic product.

Yeah I'm neither one of these IP probs work at all infact it just keeps asking one tried to repositioning it and the router tho

I am using an EZbook s5 laptop. I checked the on screen keyboard and it doesn't say anything else is being pressed and sticky keys doesn't fix anything.

this has been happening since I started routinely using phone calls and meetings (2020). There's a static sound, followed by what sounds like the click-clack of heels on tile, more static, and then nothing. my partner has also heard it while we sleep together on the phone (medium distance relationship things)

so anyways yeah it's just mildly terrifying and if anyone has information that could soothe both of our fears that would be great \^\^;;;

So I got a new phone (iPhone 18 pro) a few weeks ago and I have noticed that I can’t see the comment, upvote, or share button on the Reddit mobile app. If I click a little above where it normally is, the comments open, but it’s still a pain to have to do this. I tried to upload a photo of it but I can’t. Just imagine a black bar spanning across the bottom of your screen when you click on a post that covers any buttons at the bottom of it. Thank you anything helps!

When I try and open it on steam, the 'Play' button will go blue for a second and say 'Stop', but the actual application will not open, and itll just stop. the error below only shows up when I open it straight from it's download folder. I've tried reinstalling the game, verifying integrity of files, restarting steam and my PC, even changing the drive I install it to, but nothing

Hello, I'm trying to add a custom entry in the right-click menu for video files (I'm on Windows 11). From what I've found online, I've gathered that the process goes as follows: i open regedit; under HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT, i find the filetype for which I want to add the custom entry; i look at the value of the Default entry; then i go to the entry that corresponds to that value, and under the 'shell' option, I can add my custom entry. And it almost works. Here's the issue I have, though. Let's take for example the .mp4 filetype. Under the .mp4 entry in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT, the "Default" Value is "VLC.mp4". If I then go to that and add my custom entry, the custom entry ONLY shows up if VLC is set as my default app for .mp4 files. But I don't use VLC as my main video player, and, as such, this is an issue. With mpv set as my default app, the entry is just not there, but the "Default" value for the filetype remains the same regardless of which app I have set as my default. I tried to look for a similar mpv entry, but I cannot find one, and Google has been unhelpful. Is there any chance anyone knows what I could do to add the custom entry? Thanks.

Idk what this really even means. Never had this error before with a game.I have a 3080, i7 12700k with 32gb ram and the game was the new castlevania Belmonts curse. Happened very randomly and just crashed to desktop with that error. Was playing for about 12 hours total in this game without crashes. Noticed some microstuttering start to occur about 15 minutes prior to crash. Ran a gpu and cpu benchmark and they both appear normal. Event viewer just through an application error for the game itself but nothing else. Any explanation of what this is and if my hardware the problem or more likely a software issues with game itself?

I recently purchased a laptop. It is a acer nitro v16. It came in and I plugged it in but it wouldn't boot after arranging an exchange with newegg it randomly booted. My question is is it normal for a laptop to have to charge for a bit before it turns on. I've used laptops without batteries at all what's the deal?

I’ve been having some issues with my Studebaker 2140 boombox lately. More specifically, when it’s in CD mode. The right audio channel is very quiet and crinkly, even with headphones plugged in. This only happens in cd mode no matter what cd I put in my player. Please help.

My laptop keeps getting sudden drops in connection in every thing like multiplayer games and voice calls like discord.

The wifi icon remains looks like its fully connected with full bars during and after the drop.

Everything gets disconnected completely I manually leave and rejoin or after a long time.

Other devices on the exact same wifi don't have problems just me.

This has been going on for months its driving me insane please help!

Trying to wipe my iphones setting since my cellular is acting up for some reason and just want to start fresh to see if anything I did was the problem. The apple devices app says it will only work in recovery mode which I don't want to do, I found iMazing and its great for backing up but I'm seeing that people are saying that Apple disabled the thing they used to restore everything back into the phone which is part of what I wanted to back my phone up for so I could restore all my settings and not have to worry. Also it wont let me mass delete images off my phone for some reason say something about needing to do it in the phone.

Anyway's what do you guys recommend? Is there a better option out there that might be better and known to be private and reliable.

My rocket league, takes long time to load in matches and most times matches get cancelled, also play Call of Duty, and im looking at SSDs, which is better a SATA 2.5inch ssd or a M.2 SSD NVMe with M.2 to usb converter 3.0? All i know is that the read speeds are different but i know that the ps4 wont take full advantage of the M.2 ssd speed, but which is more better?

i just got a feelworld mic and i’m running it on a HP compaq elite AIO pc. i’ve followed the setup manual, i’ve double checked it was connected and unmuted, im not sure what the problem could be. i have it connected, go to speak in it, nothing, radio silence. does anyone know if its a missing driver causing this and which one could work to fix it? windows has a list of drivers you can install to fix issues and i’m wondering which might help or if there’s a seperate thing causing it?

On PC here and I could be playing a game and when I hit Win+G it brings up my gamebar where I can capture video or screenshot my gameplay. Out of nowhere, it will sometimes gray out those options where I cannot take a screenshot or video capture. Rebooting does not fix this. I've noticed most of the time, when my Nvidia releases a driver update, it fixes the issue after installing the update, especially if it requires an update afterwards. But sometimes, it does not fix it. What is the issue? Why does it do this? As of right now, after the latest update, it does allow me to screen record or screenshot, but I know it will not last and eventually I will not be able to do this.

I got my laptop fixed, had its keyboard + motherboard replaced, but when I have a ton of tabs or even a game open while simultaneously charging it, it’ll go black, a weird and soft buzzing noise will play on my AirPods, and it’ll just reset itself. It never used to do this no matter what I did before I got those parts replaced. Any idea on what I should do?

The laptop is an HP Pavilion Plus

So basically I was about to charge my iPhone 7 (I know I should upgrade but I’m a little short now) like normal and I didn’t notice the voltage was low I had it plug into a multi-plug port (the one with 6 plugs and 2 usb plugs) after a minute or two later I notice the other had low voltage via the lightbulb and internet went out. I immediately unplugged it and the power went out for like 9 hours.

Ok I put it in power saving mode moderately used it and once the power came back on I tried to charge but it didn’t. It wasn’t the cable cause I tried to cables and didn’t work but both worked on an old iPhone 6 I had laying around. Is there a DIY solution where I don’t have to go a phone repair shop? I also dropped it yesterday hitting bottom but it charged overnight just fine

TLDR: I have what I think is a swollen laptop battery and I want some advice on how to deal with it safely.

Hi everyone, I have a new laptop battery on the way in the mail arriving tomorrow, and tonight I decided to open up my laptop and take out the old one. (I ordered the battery knowing that it can’t hold a charge anymore, without knowing it was swollen). I attached a picture of the battery and it looks swollen to me (although can someone confirm, I’m not 100% sure how it’s supposed to look). It’s 9 pm where I live so I can’t go anywhere tonight recycle it now, and I live in an apartment building so I can’t put it outside in a bucket of sand, which seems to be a top suggestion for mitigating risk. This battery has been in my laptop since I’ve had it, since December 2018, and while I’m sure it hasn’t been swollen the whole time, I assume it’s been swollen for a decent but of time and I’ve had no issue, but I just want some peace of mind before going to sleep tonight that my battery isn’t going to explode in a flame of toxic lithium and burn down my whole building. Thanks for any advice!

The Story: Close to two weeks ago my file explorer opened randomly and showed my relatively new HDD was no longer showing the blue/white bar indicating storage space. Double clicking on it resulted in file explorer showing the loading icon and my cursor changing to the hourglass while hovering.

The Symptoms: The troubleshooting rabbit hole led me to discover that the Disk Management window kept saying it was “connecting to virtual disk service”, the Microsoft Defender Antimaleware Service was permanently at the top/second from top of the task manager memory usage, my Dell Support Assist could not check for updates because my “PC is busy right now…” and other scans kept failing/running for hours without completing, my shutdown button took minutes to actually shutdown, and my (now) slow startup occasionally entered a black screen with my cursor visible (that I solved by restarting file explorer and waiting a few minutes for everything to load in). And finally, there is a dull, slow thump coming from the computer, like a heartbeat every 4 seconds (looked inside and didn’t see any fans spinning nor how they could be knocking into wires or stuff). Other than a slow file explorer, everything else responds as usual: Firefox, Excel, Adobe, VLC, video games/launchers.

What I have tried: Turn off/unplugged/replugged/turn on. Checked for Windows update; there were a few recent windows October updates that I uninstalled, checked, and then reinstalled. Tried to download any drivers/updates from Dell Support Assist; it could not check my system to provide updates. I’ve unplugged and replugged the missing drive; no effect. I’ve gone through my startup apps but nothing stands out as problematic, just like driver checks for audio and adobe.

I finally got Dell Online Support to do a quick hardware scan followed by telling me to do a F12 boot diagnostic, which said I needed to replace my hard drive and they gave me a quote to ship and replace the part. I doesn’t seem like my SSD has an issue since a lot of other applications still seem to work. So I had Dell run the online hardware scan again and this time it passed everything. I suspect there was lag in the initial scan that gave a false negative. So I had it check for driver updates and it got to 90% and it said service was busy with current install/download.

Do y’all think this looks like a hardware issue or a software issue? I’ve googled some of the symptoms but can’t find a match that fits all/most of the issues; file explorer does seem to be related to a lot of the issues though. I’m also suspicious of these issues appearing after a recent Windows security update, which might explain why the windows defender is running above normal. Do y’all have any suggestions of more troubleshooting? Or do I have some crazy malware poking at things?

Specs: Alienware Aurora Ryzen R10
AMD Ryzen 9 5900 12 Core processor;
32GB RAM;
Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 10GB graphics card.

I will try to answer any questions/provide more info. Thanks in advance!

I have no idea what the issue is, i've tried: Reseating the RAM & checking for any loose cables but nothing has worked at all

I've read that this often means that the battery is completely shot. The thing is, this has happened to this laptop before, and it has somehow resolved itself each time. I don't know how, but it just started charging and holding charge again. That's what leads me to believe the battery itself is not truly dead.

This particular time, it has not fixed itself in a while, so I'm wondering if it's more permanent. What can I do to fix this? I've tried uninstalling battery drivers in device manager and restarting, I've tried holding the power button for 60s while dead and unplugged to reset it, and nothing seems to work. Any input is much appreciated!