My wife and I went to buy groceries on Monday evening. It seemed like a normal day, but this Wednesday morning a police officer came to our home, stating that our car caused damage to another vehicle when we left the grocery store. He claimed he searched the plaza without finding cameras, though an eyewitness exists. I am certain nothing happened on our side. After the officer left, we returned to the same plaza and requested the recording. They refused to provide it, yet they have footage showing my car parking and departing without damage to the other vehicle.

How should I proceed? This is my first experience with such a situation, and I am scared.

Update: I went to one of the restaurants covering the parking lot with their cameras and I was able to record the whole thing on my phone which I submitted to the police as well as my insurance company. Secondly: I went to my insurance company’s service centre where they inspected my car and were able to issue me a certificate where they informed me that my car was not involved in any accident recently.

Texas

Statefarm

My house was damaged in a fire ( neighbors house burned damaged ours) we have started a claim. The question is, can we just keep the money SF gives us for the repairs and sell the house as is to an investor?

I (35F) was a pedestrian and got hit in a crosswalk by a car turning left that was going about 15 MPH two months ago. Police were called and cited the driver. I declined an ambulance ride but a friend took me to the ER. I had a significant cut on the bottom of my foot, extensive road rash, a black eye, a mild sprained ankle and I mentioned my neck and back to the doctor but it felt mild at the time and I don’t know how much they noted that. I got CT scans of my face and neck and x rays of my hands, feet, hips and elbow, all of which were negative. The day after the accident I developed significant neck pain and moderate low back pain.

Two days after, I saw a primary care provider (not my usual provider) because the road rash on my fingers got infected. It required oral antibiotics, and healed in about 14 days. Three days after the accident, I saw my regular primary who diagnosed me with a concussion even though that was not diagnosed at the ER. She gave me muscle relaxers and referred me to PT.

I saw a non force chiropractor twice a week for two weeks, and now see him and a massage therapist about every other week. About three weeks after the accident, once my road rash was better, I started physical therapy, which I still go to twice a week.

As of now, my only lingering injury is to my neck, which PT is helping. I had headaches every day for three weeks, but get one about once every ten days now. I still take muscle relaxers and aleve.

Overall, my medical bills are probably around 12k right now. My lost wages are probably around 2k, although I technically lost PTO, not wages. I worked from home 95% for about two months, which most would enjoy but I detested.

The initial offer I got from the insurance adjuster was 15k for pain and suffering and 50k for medical accrued until December 1st. This was significantly more than I expected as an initial offer, given that now I’m mostly dealing with a neck injury and I haven’t given him any supporting medical records. I doubt I will be done with medical treatment before December 1st, but since this offer is so much higher than I expected I’m inclined to at least negotiate it rather than declining and waiting until I’m done treating. Would a counteroffer extending the 50k for medical until March 1, 2027 and raising the pain and suffering to 25k be a reasonable? Or should I really just wait until I’m done treating? I’m worried that if I wait and have to submit my medical records, the adjuster will decide my injuries aren’t as severe as they thought or that I will have to go through a much more invasive claims process for an amount that isn’t meaningfully higher.

Thanks in advance!

Hi! I live in a state that requires mandatory Personal Injury Protection auto insurance (Michigan). This seems very much like what UM/UIM would cover in an umbrella policy. My auto insurance offers me unlimited PIP for very reasonable premium - do I still need the excess UM/UIM on the umbrella policy?

Over the last three years, have had two terrible hail storms in our neighborhood, one in tandem with a microburst. As a result, easily 50% of the homes in our subdivision have had roof replacements including the homes directly east, west, north, and south of us. We had reputable roofers come out after each storm to assess (different companies each time) and they said we needed a new roof and showed evidence of damage–only to be followed by State Farm's field adjustor denying the claim after his site visit. I find it extremely suspicious that our house would be spared, when every single home in the vicinity was not.

To add insult to injury, today we got a letter in the mail warning us that because we had "activity" on our account over the last 3 years we are at risk for cancellation, even though the payment to us was ZERO.

Over the last 30 years I have paid over $40,000 in premiums to these clowns and they have never had to pay out a claim to us on our home and now they threaten to cancel because we made a legitimate ask about our roof?

Why is this legal? Anyone else get letter like this?

If I use a broker to shop around for a new company, they will probably see that we requested a new roof and charge us a premium price. Additionally, I wouldn't be surprised to get a letter from State Farm next year telling us our roof is too old for them to insure (installed in 2013) and we need to replace it or they will drop coverage of it.

Just grousing unless you have suggestions.

Oh...failed to mention - I've also been paying them car insurance since 1983.
State Farm is NOTHING like a good neighbor.

Hey all,

I am looking for advice or maybe even what to expect in my current situation.

Neighbor hired landscaper crew to aerate and seed his yard. They completely rutted up our shared hill of which is 90% my property. They made a half-hearted attempt to smooth the muddy mess back down and threw some seed on it.
The more concerning part was on the slide down the hill the aerator went and knocked my hvac unit around a fair bit. The outer protective screen is bent and broken in several places. The inner coil has a few bent fins in it as well. The entire unit was moved around in a different position in the pad. When I had an HVAC technician come out to check and run a diagnostic they told me the unit is reading low pressure. He commented that the unit is probably low on Freon. We have not had any issues with the unit this year They also found a "stress bend" in one of the hard lines leading into the home/unit. No obvious leaks from their limited inspection.
The tough part is it's the original unit (20~ years) with the house and there are no replacement parts available to fix the damaged parts.
I'm thankful we have cameras overlooking the area where this happened because the company never said a word to us until I noticed it several days later.
We filed with the company's insurance and just wanted a head start to avoid the run around as best as we could.

Portland hired a third party company to tow me during street sweeping (my fault for sure) but the tow company scratched my front bumper really bad. It happened on 10/20, is it too late to do something?

I am on my father’s insurance policy and he is listed as the policyholder . I went to finance a vehicle today and they said he would need to be a co-signer on the loan because it’s his name on the insurance . I am listed as an insured driver on the policy….

Does this sound accurate? I currently cannot get insured on my own insurance policy because of an open claim on my current one . I am wondering if I need to try a different dealership or if this is a known thing I’m going to run into. I really do not want my father to co-sign on my loan just because of this.

This is my first time buying a car so sorry if this is a dumb question.

I’m in Tennessee.

Thanks!

I bought a lemon/manufacturer buyback car basically brand new, got it with 4k miles on it. Im afraid the insurance company is gonna screw me over on my actual cash value.

For my specific car in my area, my car as clean title is worth $37,000. I want to see if anyone knows the percentage they'd deduct due to it being a lemon? I found the exact model of my car(also a buyback) selling for 39k with 16k miles, but it is also 1200 miles away(there's no other examples out there besides that one)

I belive I have a lit of fighting room as, my cars factory warrenty is still in effect even after the buyback, as well as I've put 21k miles on the car with zero issues. The buyback was for a transmission control module.

I have been no contact with my father for about 13 years and I’m now 26. My birthday was two weeks ago and I’ve been trying to join my companies insurance as I’ve been under my dad‘s this whole time. It was court mandated during my parents divorce that he keeps me on his insurance through his company so I’ve just been riding out the benefits as it’s the only thing I still get from him.

My insurance company has been telling me all year that I need to wait until I get closer to my end date to receive the letter of termination to give my new insurance company. As I get closer, the insurance company is giving me a very difficult time because I do not have any of my father‘s information such as current phone number or home address and they cannot verify me?? It’s frustrating because I have been using the insurance with my own card and getting billed with no issues this whole time.

I’m really upset because I don’t see a way for me to get this letter. They are literally telling me no because they cannot verify my father’s information and it would be his address they’d have to send the letter to.

There is a very strong chance that I reach out to my father and he is cooperative, but it will open up a can of worms that I am not interested in opening. Unfortunately, I’m an idiot and haven’t given myself a lot of time and I do not want an insurance lapse, but I really don’t see any other options other than having to contact him.

If you have gone through anything similar, please let me know how you handled it.

My girlfriend's parents have a car they got from Car-Mart but it's currently broke down so they're not driving it. They have this car and another vehicle on insurance policy.

Would it be okay to let the the car from car March insurance be canceled without Car-Mart finding out or repossessing the vehicle ? I was telling my sister about their car being broke down and she said something about this information on. If it's on a policy with another vehicle, they shouldn't do anything if insurance is canceled while you're not using the vehicle.

Has anyone else ever heard this or tested these Waters?

Hey, looking for advice. Got hit head on by the hurricane had half of my fence blown over, tree fell in the yard and knocked more fence over. Roof leaked in about 10 different places with water leaking in ruining floors couch etc. rust stains all over the walls in Florida room. Missing shingles, soffit blown off, flashing removed, etc. adjuster came in last week and total damages were $1200 for everything (deductible is $8800). Just replacing the amount of fence would be over $5,000 for labor and materials. Is it worth it to get a public adjuster in at this point? Everything i have read is don’t do it but i don’t have the time to do everything myself at this point. Or am i just not going to win this claim?

Not sure which would be more favorable but my insurance company said that Id be better not doing subrogation and filing with the at fault drivers insurance.

If i did subrogation, they would pay for getting my car fixed and later try recovering from the at fault driver. But i could be on the hook later.

If i file with the third party insurance co of the at fault driver and they accept liability then its easier.

What do you suggest? thanks.

I have a secondary home (not rented) in a coastal area of NJ. I previously had Plymouth Rock who transferred our policy to ShoreOne several years ago. Our current policy expiring this November is about $1800 a month, and we have a separate flood policy.

ShoreOne tried to cancel our policy renewal due to age of the roof, which I then provided documentation for (new in 2020). After they accepted the documentation they provided renewal documents at over $6500!

I called them but they just shrugged essentially saying "that's the rate". I tried shopping around but there are limited companies that insure secondary coastal home in NJ. The only other I found was willing to insure for $5400, but I was warned that I'd need to replace my water storage tank.

Is this just the new reality of insurance?

For context, the house is 1900sqft, 2 bathrooms, and the water heater is a storage tank off the boiler, but is fairly old (probably greater than 20 years).

Howdy folks, my upstairs neighbor flooded about 15% of my home. Their insurance is reimbursing, but the replacement flooring is of a paler hue. As the old flooring was tested, I am assured that the flooring is the same and the difference in coloring is the result of the old floor ambering in the sun. Seems, plausible as the most extreme difference is in the room with the most direct sunlight. Anyway, the contractor indicates that refinishing to match will NOT be covered by the insurer; but the difference is pretty noticeable and more pronounced than I expected. Do folks agree that this is just the limitation of insurance coverage and is a tough break that I either need to pay for to fix or live with? I cannot imagine the contractor is ducking a paycheck for additional work, and the AI summaries seem to agree; but maybe I am giving up too easily,

I need help choosing the best option 🙏

Got enrolled in Travelers’ IntelliDrive through my broker for the discount, and the more I dig into it the more uneasy I am about it — curious if others have run into this.

Two separate issues:

1. No transparency on thresholds. Travelers doesn’t publish any actual numbers for what counts as a “hard brake,” “high speed,” or “rapid acceleration” event — no g-force, no mph/sec, nothing. You’re just told the categories exist and scored against a black box. I get that insurers don’t want people gaming it, but it makes it impossible to know what’s actually tanking your score vs. normal driving.

2. It can’t tell the difference between dangerous driving and controlled performance driving. I do HPDE/track days (legally, on a closed course, insured separately through Hagerty for track coverage) and some spirited driving off-track too. The app has no way to know I’m on a closed course — it’s just reading accelerometer and GPS data. A single track day could log dozens of “hard brake” and “high speed” events that get averaged into my 90-day score right alongside actual public-road driving, even though the risk profile is completely different.

From what I can tell, there’s no way to pause tracking or manually exclude a trip in the consumer app (unlike some fleet telematics products), and nothing indicating track geofencing/auto-exclusion either. The obvious “just leave your phone at home” workaround doesn’t really work for me either — I use a lap timing app on track and a routing app for spirited drives (GPS-based), so the phone needs to be with me and recording the whole session anyway.

3. The underlying data collection itself. Setting the scoring aside, this is a phone app passively logging your precise location and motion continuously for 90 days to set your insurance rate. That’s a lot of granular movement data handed to an insurer, with not much clarity on retention, how it’s used beyond the discount calculation, or whether it factors into claims decisions down the line. Even if you’re a “safe” driver by their metric, you’re still trading a meaningful amount of tracking for a relatively modest discount.

So the program is effectively penalizing people for doing something in a controlled, insured environment, using the same lens it uses for someone tailgating and brake-checking on the highway — and the one easy fix (don’t bring the phone) isn’t actually easy if you’re using your phone for the track side of things too.

Has anyone gotten Travelers to confirm whether they exclude track data, found a workaround that doesn’t tank your lap timing, or dug into how their data retention/use policy actually works? Would also be curious whether other UBI programs (Progressive Snapshot, Allstate Drivewise, etc.) handle any of this better.

Hi,

I’ve recently come to a hard realization most big insurance companies will not cover homeowner insurance in Indialantic Florida. What does everybody else have for homeowner insurance in Indialantic Florida? Thank you!

I received a mail of a lawsuit today of an accident that happened a year ago , and my insurance company is still reviewing the case, and transferred me to a litigation adjuster.I’m trying to avoid going to court if possible. Has anyone been in a similar situation? What would you recommend?

Edit: I was found at fault according to the police report. The other driver was cited for unknowingly driving with a suspended license. Another thing I’m confused it, if I was found at fault, why didn’t my insurance paid them as the amount is eligible due to my policy?

I currently have auto insurance for my 2011 impala (just me, 29F, just my one car) with GEICO which costs me $1228.79/6month. I've had this insurance and this car since I turned 18, with only one notable collision during that time (in 2024) where I wasn't at fault and drove away without damages - I don't think I even brought it up to GEICO, though I did give my insurance and contact info to the other party. I WFH so I haven't driven much since college, and my car is still under 75k miles and in good condition.

Recently I've been looking into seeing if changing my insurance provider would allow me to save some money, and my first step was getting a quote from Progressive (will get quotes from other providers later, this just happened to be the first one I checked). I plugged in all my same coverage that I currently have with GEICO, and for a 6 month rate, Progressive quoted me... $484? barely over a third of my current price. Am I crazy or is this way too big of a difference to make sense? have I been dramatically overpaying at GEICO, or am I missing something major from Progressive? Is the progressive rate likely to spike after first 6 months? I can't find anything on the quote page that implies as such, even in the fine print.

Policy details for both my current GEICO plan and my Progressive quote:

• Liability: 250k/500k

• Property Liability: 50k

• Medical Expense: 10k

• Uninsured Bodily Injury: 250k/500k

• Uninsured Property Liability: 50k

• Other than Collision: $250 ded

• Anything not listed: not covered (I want to add collision coverage and possibly reassess my policy overall, but that's not currently part of either amount, I'm just comparing things as they currently stand and will make changes later before committing to a new provider)

Hi there!

A couple weeks back, I was backed into in the parking lot while driving. A car backed out of their parking spot relatively fast while I was going literally 5 miles an hour. There was minor paint damage to his vehicle (according to him)and quite a bit of damage to my rear passenger side. We go to exchange info, him and all his friends get out of the car, I give him my insurance, he then puts his hand on my shoulder, asks if I believe in the lord, and says to take this as a sign from above that I was going to fast and that if I were anywhere else, it could have been catastrophic. He refused to give me his information, stating it was clearly my fault and his insurance wouldn’t pay, that if I carried full coverage, my insurance would cover it no problem. Like the idiot I am… and the overwhelmed mess I was because my 4 year old was in the car and was on the side he hit, I just drove off and decided I’d figure it out.

Well… I filed a claim with my insurance (Geico). They took care of it. Obviously without his info, I’m the at fault party. They had to replace the entire back panel, and it was a $5000 repair bill, so I’m glad I went through insurance, but still. I’ve been in a rental for a week and a half already. Am I looking at a huge rate increase come renewal time? I didn’t have the accident forgiveness on my policy. Is it worthless to add now for future use? I’ve never done this before. I’ve been claim free, and an amazing driver. In hindsight, I know what to do differently, but I had no common sense in the moment

Does changing auto insurance every 6 to 12 months look bad? I currently have liberty mutual and before that I had Travelers. Earlier in the year I had to file a claim about hitting a chair on the highway (unavoidable) with travelers. When it came to renew it increased my premium. Which then I switched to Linberty which was lower. Now unfortunately recently my windshield got damaged from a trailer truck flicking a rock at it and now needs to be replaced. The cost to get it repaired is around 2000, my comprehensive coverage is 1000. Now my renewal is coming up in November. Now this is what is my decision has come down to (unless someone else has a better one). 1.) I file with liberty and when my renewal comes, I’m pretty sure it’s going to increase again. Which then I will just switch out to another insurance company (3rd in less then 2 years). 2.) Wait till my renewal comes and THEN file it. Therefore, my premium won’t increase untill my next renewal. 3.) Find another insurance company for cheaper, then immediately file a claim to get it repaired (this looks bad doesn’t it?)

Which option should I do? Paying out of pocket is something I just don’t want to do. How much do you think it will increase my premium?