My friend Ezra and I made a board that goes inside a Wiimote and runs ESPHome, so Home Assistant sees every button, the LEDs, the rumble and the tilt.

In the video, A turns on a different lamp depending on how you hold it: tilted up for the tall one, level for the small one. It's just a regular automation reading the tilt.
The TV at the end is the remote's own IR. We copied the codes from the TV's remote with the IR receiver, and the emitter sends them. It also supports bluetooth so you can control smart tv's etc.

Config's on GitHub: https://github.com/openmote/openmote-homeassistant

We're funding the first production run on Crowd Supply, if you're interested: openmote.io

Details in the comments.

I posted about my PoE version of this a while back. I decided to make a real board to replace the wireless units at my house. One of the ratgdos had a nasty habit of dropping off the WiFi with some frequency. Despite trying to lock it to the closest AP -- no luck. Anyway, wires don't suffer from these issues. I'm running a customized version of this ESPHOME config. It works pretty great. I'm sure I could have tried harder to get the wifi working, maybe an external antenna, but whatever, the attic was right above the garage so it was easy to run the wires. I ordered extra of these so if you're interested in one DM me. USA only please.

I’ll keep it brief, this is a very technical piece but everyone has an interpreter. My setup involves multiple machines. One for HA, one for Frigate another for a logger/interpreter. As I built, this security kernel emerged when I decided I needed a usb to swap machines out if something happened. It’s architecture neutral so far. My repo isnt ready to be opened to the world and all of the ai, I never intended to be public so, discussion is open if there’s interest or understanding here.

My entire house uses Zooz switches. But with the shortages at the Smartest House only getting worse, I've decided to switch to a more reliable source for Z-Wave smart switches. Zooz doesn't have the best longeviry, either, Mine seem to die after about three years.

So what's out there that isn't $75 per switch and doesn't suck?

So I built hermes-jarvis, which connects to your hermes instance, and uses HA voice to listen for "Hey Jarvis" wake word.

- Long running, agentic replies are spoken smartly, as soon as the brain produces them. So code blocks are not read line by line, and the response becomes shorter, the longer it takes.

- The stop word and the wake word work during long jobs, and "stop" silences the reply without cancelling the job.

- If the reply ends in a question, the device listens again by itself.

- Works with Hermes agent or anything OpenAI-compatible (Ollama, etc.), with cloud or fully local speech to text, and Piper for TTS

- Own firmware (stock plus a few changes) flashable from the browser; Docker image; small web UI with a live view

Caveats: tested on the Voice PE only. The device serves one voice client, so it can't be used with HA at the same time. No timers or HA device control.

I've had a Shelly EM Gen4 installed and compared it against my elec retailer's app. It was under-reading the grid by about 25%. I realised I hadn't changed the Shelly channel setting from 50A to 120A clamp. That's been done but the difference in readings hasn't changed.

The house is only single phase.

I don't think I can do anything else in the Shelly so is the fix just a template to scale the value ?

Hi everyone!

I'm fairly new to Home Assistant and could really use some help with integrating my security cameras properly.

My current setup:

• Home Assistant: Running on a Raspberry Pi
• Doorbell: 1x Aqara G4 Video Doorbell (wired power)
• Cameras: 2x Aqara G5 PoE cameras (connected via Ethernet)
• IP Camera: 1x Dahua IP camera (connected via Ethernet)

Currently, I mainly use the Aqara app to view my Aqara cameras and the DMSS app to view my Dahua camera.

Everything works perfectly in their respective apps. The video feeds are clear, smooth, and load quickly.

However, I'd really like to bring all these cameras together into Home Assistant so I can view and manage everything from one dashboard.

The problem:

I've already managed to get some of the cameras working in Home Assistant, but the performance is really disappointing.

Here's what I'm experiencing:

• Camera feeds take a very long time to load.
• Live video is extremely laggy and stutters.
• Sometimes the video feed doesn't load completely or only partially displays.
• Overall, the experience is nowhere near as smooth as using the original camera apps.

Since most of my cameras are connected via Ethernet (including the PoE cameras), and everything works fine in their native apps, I'm guessing the issue might be related to how the cameras are integrated into Home Assistant.

What I'm looking for:

I'd love to have a Home Assistant dashboard where I can view all my cameras with smooth, reliable live video and minimal loading times.

My questions are:

1. What's the best way to integrate Aqara G4, Aqara G5 PoE, and Dahua IP cameras into Home Assistant?
2. Should I be using RTSP, ONVIF, HomeKit, WebRTC, go2rtc, or something else?
3. Are there specific settings or integrations that could improve streaming performance?

I'm still a beginner when it comes to Home Assistant, so I'd really appreciate some beginner-friendly advice, step-by-step instructions, or guides.

I'm not necessarily looking for advanced recording or NVR functionality right now. My main goal is simply to have all my cameras working smoothly in one Home Assistant dashboard.

Thanks in advance for your help! Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Hey guys!

I was a bit bored last weekend and I recently also got a Claude Pro subscription. What started as a joke is now a full theme for HomeAssistant. It brings the window look, a custom start menu, a windows clock, different colorways (you can also make your own) and styles (Win 3.11/95/98) and of course custom icons.

You can install it thru HACS as an integration from here https://github.com/Schumey/HomeAssistant95

Please let me know if you have any ideas or find some bugs!

New to home assistant and got the home assistant green - I cannot figure out how to add the Govee H601A downlights - anyone help?

Sorry for the wall of text but I need to type out what I have and see if it is possible to do in Home Assistant.

I am looking at Home Assistant but before I go down that road, I want to make sure I can at least

do what I can currently do with my current configuration using Alexa and Hubitat.

The news about the custom firmware on the echo dots/show has me excited.

I have a dedicated PC with linux that I currently use as my pihole (DNS blacklisting). But it is basically running on idle.

I would like to convert my Amazon Echo devices to be used by Home Assistant.

My current usage is probably small compared to what most people are doing. But I would like to break away from using Alexa

since it seems to be getting worse at hearing. I do not have to be stuck with Hubitat either.

I put the things I do now first, then listed the hardware under it.

Thank you for any input / suggestions that you have!

The current things I can do now that I want to duplicate

Alexa (voice stuff)

preheat the oven / set specific temp

turn on kitchen fan

get the time

get the weather

ask simple questions

Turn on specific lights

"time for bed" routine shuts off all downstairs lights

set thermostat

add things to lists

check google calendar

set timers

set reminders

turn on fireplace set 20 min off timer (actually hubitat automation)

Alexa routines

Turn on/off holiday lights at specific times

Turn on bed heating pad for 5 minutes once an hour from 9pm to 2am

Turn on/off Christmas tree

Hubitat automations

if switch next to front door is pressed off once, disable audible alert and relock timer. change color on light switch to indicate in bypass

if Front door is physically moved to unlock

    if not in bypass and front door Smart lock is unlocked, announce on speaker that the lock is unlocked, set a 10 minute timer to relock, if between 5pm and midnight turn on entry light. change switch led color to red indicating door is unlocked.

    if in bypass change switch led color to red to indicate unlocked

if Front door is physically moved to lock

    change switch led color to green to indicate door is locked

if water is detected at sensors announce leak on repeat until cleared and shut off water to house

if basement light switch is double tapped on ALL basement lights come on

if basement light switch is double tapped off ALL basement lights go off

if motion sensor on front porch activated turn on front porch / carriage lights set 10 minute off timer

if motion sensor in garage activated turn on garage lights set 20 minute off timer renewed with additional motion

if motion sensor in basement activated turn on basement storage area light set 10 minute off timer

if large garage door sensed open set led to red on switch light in kitchen and upstairs and turn on garage lights else set led green

if small garage door sensed open set led to red on other switch light in kitchen and upstairs and turn on garage lights else set led green

Current hardware

Alexa

3x Echo Dot (2nd gen), RS03QR

1x Echo Dot (4th gen), B7W644

1x Echo Show (1st gen), MW46WB

Hubitat C-8

Zooz 3x 4-in-1 Sensor z-Wave

garage

basement storage

front porch

Zooz 8x Zen 72 Dimmer switch

Dining Room Light

Entry Light

Front Porch Light

Hall upstairs Light

Kitchen Table Light

Stair Light

Kitchen Cabinet Lights

Pendant Light

Zooz 9x Zen 71 Light Switch

Back Patio Lights

Bird Lights

Chandelier

Crystal Light

Dart board Light

Fireplace Fan

Garage Lights

Kitchen Sink Light

Shuffleboard pendant Lights

Zooz Zen 51 dry contact relay

Fireplace

Zooz 2x ZSE42 Water Leak Sensor

Basement (near water heater)

Laundry Room (under washing machine)

Zooz 2x ZSE43 Tilt Shock XS sensor

Garage Large Door

Garage Small Door

Zooz ZAC36 Ball Valve Controller

on water main in basement

Zooz Double Plug

Garage Ceiling fixtures

Hue Bridge

Hue 5x Bulb

Sonos SYMFONISK Bookshelf IP Speaker

Yale 2x Yale Assure Lock 2 Touch Deadbolt Zwave ZW3 Keyless

Yale 1x Yale Azzure Lock SL Zwave Keyless

GE Cafe Gas Range/Double Oven Wifi

Ubiquiti Dream Router 7

Ubiquiti 2x WIFi APs

TPLink (Kasa) 6x Smart Plugs

Amazon Smart Plug

Kitchen Exhaust Fan

Wyze Smart Plug

Fountain

Bed heating pad

Google Nest Thermostat 1.4 software 2.2

I'm on the verge of switching to HA after a long time of procrastinating, but I'm confused about this. I know about the assistant option, but I keep reading articles about integration with Google or Alexa, and I just don't see the point of using HA if you need to rely on the Internet always being available as well as the obvious privacy issues.

It's possible that I'm missing something, so I'm hoping someone can clear this up for me. Thank you.

Went through all the set up steps pretty meticulously. Got all the way to the end and was hit with a “ERROR 403: ACCESS_DENIED OR ACCESS BLOCKED: HOME-ASSISTANT.IO HAS NOT COMPLETED GOOGLE’S VERIFICATION PROCESS”

Pretty easy fix — I hadn’t added myself as a test user for the project.

Added that, and went through the set up steps again. Approved everything with Google.

Seemingly done, but the integration doesn’t show in home assistant. When I go to set up the best integration in HA again, I get “This is already being configured. Finish the existing configuration before starting again.”

I’m unsure where to go from here.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated!

Beyond that and on another note — I’m a pretty technical person, but HA seems to be a bit more complex than I had anticipated. Any recommendations for learning resources would be greatly appreciated!

Hi all, UK based.

I have HA green set up and working great thanks to this site and integrated Claude desktop.

I have my solar, inverter, batteries and power supplier all setup, my Tuya lights, CCTV system and Alexa., our house calendar. I've ordered a Waveshare for my ASHP so will set that up when it arrives. Now I want to think how I can add my 2 EV's to HA, I have a Jaguar I-pace and a Citroën C4, does anyone know what equipment I'll need to do this? I'm confident with the help of Claude to be able to set up, just need best equipment for this?

TL;DR: Building an AI-powered home monitoring system that analyzes historical Home Assistant data, identifies potential equipment problems, investigates causes, and reduces unnecessary alerts. This is less about controlling my home with AI and more about using AI to understand how my home is actually operating.

Apologies on the length of this post…

I've been messing around with something for a while now and was curious if anyone else is doing anything similar.

I see a ton of really impressive Home Assistant dashboards, but I've been wondering why more people aren't using AI to actually analyze all the data we're collecting.

I've been building my own system that pulls information from HA along with a bunch of other sources. Electrical usage, HVAC, temperatures, septic, well, vehicles, appliances, etc.

Instead of just setting thresholds and getting alerts when something happens, I've been using AI to look through historical data, establish baselines, compare how things are operating, and try to identify issues I might not even know to look for.

For example, is a refrigerator running longer than it used to? Is an AC unit taking longer to cool the house? Is a pump cycling more frequently? And if something looks unusual, can AI dig into the other available data and help figure out why?

One thing I've been careful about is that just because something has operated a certain way for months doesn't necessarily mean it's operating correctly. A baseline tells you what's been happening, not necessarily what's normal or healthy for that equipment.

I'm using the OpenAI API for the actual analysis. I originally experimented with running a local model on my Mac, but ended up switching to OpenAI because I was getting much better results and the cost isn’t crazy. I'm sure that'll increase as I have it analyzing more things, but so far cost hasn't really been an issue.

The part I'm working toward now is having it proactively go through the house and look for developing problems without me having to ask. I'm also working on having AI evaluate my Pushover notifications so I'm not getting interrupted by a bunch of alerts that really don't need my attention.

It's definitely still a work in progress, but I've been pretty impressed with what it can already figure out from the data.

Anyone else doing something like this? I'm especially curious if people are using AI for actual historical analysis and monitoring rather than just voice control or generating automations.

Would be interested to hear what others have tried and what's working for them.

AI wrote the firmware; I handled the design, review and testing. The pixel-art interfaces were not in the original plan, but we'll get to those.

I wanted my boiler and ventilation unit in Home Assistant, with local control, MQTT and no extra proprietary gateway. That turned into two ESP32 firmware projects: an OpenTherm thermostat and a Zehnder ComfoAir Q integration.

Both repos are linked below. I'm sharing them for anyone looking for a similar setup, and I'd welcome compatibility reports, feedback and contributions.

The OpenTherm thermostat

Code on GitHub

This one runs on an ESP32-C3 with a DIYLess OpenTherm shield. It replaces the thermostat, rather than sitting between one and the boiler. HA sends heating demand over MQTT; the ESP handles the OpenTherm conversation and rejects out-of-range setpoints.

It is meant for boilers with OpenTherm, not just my particular boiler. Mine happens to be an Intergas Kombi Kompakt HRE. That is also the only model I have tested it on, so I would be interested in hearing from people who know the quirks of other OpenTherm boilers.

The OpenTherm thermostat hardware: ESP32-C3 with the interface board.

One priority was handling the loss of HA or Wi-Fi. OpenTherm communication is designed to run independently of the network connection, with a watchdog and a failsafe for stale HA commands. The goal is to avoid leaving an old heating demand active when new commands stop arriving.

That failure handling is an important part of the design, though testing on my Intergas does not cover every failure or every boiler model.

There is also a web UI for boiler status and heating controls, with a pixel-art scene and animated water. Not strictly necessary for a thermostat, but I like having something a little more cheerful than a table of numbers.

The ComfoAir Q

Code on GitHub

The second project uses an M5Stack NanoC6 connected to the ventilation unit's CAN bus. No ComfoConnect gateway. No cloud account. Just the local connection and MQTT to HA.

The project defines 76 HA entities: temperatures, humidity, fan speeds, bypass, filter days remaining, and so on. There are controls for ventilation level, bypass, away mode and boost. Firmware updates go through the browser, with boot rollback.

Quite a lot for something small enough to disappear behind its own cable.

The ventilation hardware: NanoC6 with the cable and connector assembly.

The ComfoAir integration is still experimental: its real-hardware acceptance checklist is incomplete, and not all 76 entities and controls have been verified end to end. If you are considering trying it, check the hardware-verification notes in the repo first. Reports about which readings and commands work on particular Q models would be especially useful.

The ventilation web UI includes an overview, airflow and filter pages, plus a matching pixel-art scene. Once the boiler had animated water, giving the ventilation unit some moving air seemed only fair.

Both repos are linked above. If either project looks useful for your setup, I'd love to hear what you think. And if you do give one a try, let me know how it goes.

For those of you who have not gotten the news yet: The eMudhra intermediate CAs private key was leaked (they literally used the number "4"). As a consequence, everyone can issue certificates for websites and servers that appear to be valid to unpatched devices.

I was wondering whether we can use this to our advantage. Imagine you have a cheap WiFi light bulb that receives its command from some proprietary app through some server.

We redirect the domain of the server, i.e. random-company.com to a local server through DNS.

Before, the light bulb would not connect to our local server, because no one would issue a valid certificate for random-company.com for us. But now, we could in theory use the leaked private key of eMudhra to issue such a certificate ourselves. Of course, this only works if the light bulbs firmware is not updated to reject certificates issued by the untrustworthy CA.

I suspect that we could use this to turn many cloud only integrations into fully local ones, as long as the devices are not updated (or implement proper certificate revocation lists).

What are your thoughts on this? Any device you have in mind for which this could work out?

I posted about this yesterday but took it further. I hope folks find it useful, I've found it very useful so far!

The first release of wakesmith as an app: a web page and a command line for training microWakeWord and openWakeWord models locally. The earlier LiveKit-based recipe stays available as [v0.1](https://github.com/HuskerMinion/wakesmith/tree/v0.1).

New

- **Web app** (`wakesmith serve`): a dashboard of your wake words, a guided new-word flow (what it's for, the phrase, real voices, train, pick and export), live training progress with time left, Help, Hardware and Data & licenses pages, and delete or cancel for wake words.
- **Hardware detection and setup:** Intel Arc (XPU), NVIDIA (CUDA, including WSL2 through `nvidia-smi`), AMD (ROCm, experimental) or CPU (each GPU build is checked with a real calculation on the card before use), with settings derived from GPU memory, cores and free RAM. Warnings for low disk and for less than about 16 GB of RAM.
- **Recording in the browser:** prompted takes, a level meter, automatic stop, speaker names, held-out takes for testing, room-sound clips. `serve --https` makes the microphone work from other devices on your LAN.
- **Mozilla Common Voice** as a real-voice source for common words: counts the takes, cuts the phrase out with forced alignment, and splits by speaker into a test set and optional training takes. `wakesmith commonvoice-download` and `commonvoice-count`.
- **Runs kept and compared:** every finished run is saved with its results and models; Compare shows them side by side at one cutoff.
- **Device-accurate scoring:** microWakeWord through ESPHome's audio front end, or the zserge front end (`wakesmith test --frontend zserge`); openWakeWord through its runtime's own feature extraction. Exports record the front end in their metadata.
- **Exports:** microWakeWord `.tflite` with its ESPHome manifest and YAML snippet; openWakeWord `.tflite` built from plain operations, so small device interpreters can run it; a LICENSE-NOTE.txt listing what that model was trained on.

Known limits

- AMD (ROCm) is experimental and untested. NVIDIA is tested on one card (RTX 5060 Ti under WSL2); plain Linux with NVIDIA isn't yet.
- Training uses the CPU: microWakeWord's TensorFlow has no Intel GPU support.
- The default data profile uses non-commercial datasets, so trained models are for personal use. An "open" profile is planned.
- Results so far come from one household; please treat them as a direction, and see the call for testers. 

Hi everyone! 👋I wanted to share my recent setup integrating a Bodner air conditioning unit (which runs internally on Midea hardware/protocols) into Home Assistant using ESPHome.

My Barista Express already makes coffee before I reach the kitchen, thanks to two Zigbee relays I put inside it last month. The one remaining problem: the Sage grinds for a set time, and the grams you get in that time drift with the beans, the grind setting, and the hopper's mood. 18g on Monday, 17g by Friday. Unacceptable.

So I sawed my dosing ring in half and put a load cell between the halves. The portafilter now hangs from a scale, an ESP32 reads it 84 times a second, and when the weight gets close to 18 g it presses the grinder button again to stop it.

Home Assistant is deliberately not in the loop. It’s far too slow: a third to two-thirds of a second, which is most of a gram. The scale talks straight to the relay over a Zigbee binding. HA’s job is to set the target and admire the results on a dashboard.

Things that went wrong, for your entertainment:

• The first grind stopped perfectly, then started again by itself 3 s later. The relay’s confirmation got lost, so the scale politely resent “stop”, which on a grinder means “start”. It now says everything once.
• On battery, it took 5.5 s to rejoin the network from the kitchen. The culprit was my Tuya mmWave sensor, which offers to take sleepy devices and then ignores them. It’s now ignored back.

The results so far: 18.0 g the first morning and 18.1 g the next. A sample size of two, so obviously proven beyond doubt.

Full write-up: https://marcuslab.uk/projects/sage-barista-grind-by-weight/

Processing img do12cw9x7wwh1...

I am using Home Assistant OS on a Raspberry Pi (Pi 2 I believe)

Core: 2026.9.0

Supervisor: 2026.10.3

Operating System: 18.2

No new ZigBee devices will pair to my coordinator which is a Sonoff/Texas Instruments model. I have 32 devices currently paired (I did have 33 previously, which I disconnected during the process of troubleshooting this). The devices I am trying to pair are the same models of devices that I currently have that are working fine. I am hesitant to unpair anything because I don't think I will be able to repair. I have copied logs into ChatGPT, looked at every forum, etc. and cannot find anything that helps. I have done full reboots several times, I think I did a database reset or something similar but that also did not help. I do not have access to the logs right now, but what I do remember is that there were no lines in the logs about failing joins. I am at a complete loss on what to do short of a complete wipe, any help is appreciated.

Happy Wednesday! I need some suggestions. What are y'all using for automatic blinds or shades? I'd love to be able to automate the white shades you see here (in the cooler seasons, sunlight blindingly pours in). I'm not looking to do anything to the drapes, I just need three of a solution to control shades there.

Thanks in advance!

Looking for a few people to try a Home Assistant remote access add-on

I've been a Blink user for years and recently discovered Home Assistant. I really like how open it is and thought another easy way to access it remotely might be useful.

I'm a product manager at Datum, and I've been spending some evenings and weekends building an open-source Home Assistant add-on called Datum Connect. It sets up a tunnel so you can access Home Assistant from the internet without opening ports or changing anything on your router. I also added a web application firewall (WAF) for a little extra protection. We don't cache any traffic.

I've got it running on my Home Assistant Green and have been through the installation a few dozen times now. I think it's ready for some other folks to give it a try.

Current user count: 1. Me. :)

You'll need a Datum account. The service is free right now, and I'll do my best to keep it that way for early adopters.

I'd love to see how it works on other setups. I'll keep an eye on this thread, and if you run into problems, I'm happy to help figure them out. You can also find me on LinkedIn.

• Datum account: https://www.datum.net/
• Installation guide: https://github.com/datum-labs/datum-connect-daemon/blob/main/addon/datum-connect/DOCS.md
• Install video: https://youtu.be/cD_lEvKiWfA

Thanks!

Brett

Your Bluetooth proxies forward everything they hear, and most of it is the neighbours' phones and Apple Continuity noise that Home Assistant throws away after your Wi-Fi and the API have carried it. ESPHome 2026.10.0 added a hook in bluetooth_proxy (esphome#19220) so an external component can veto an advert before it's queued. ble_advert_filter is that component: https://github.com/davidcoulson/esphome-ble-advert-filter

It drops weak signals, every phone except the ones whose IRKs you list, and any manufacturer or name you block. It keeps HomeKit, iBeacons, AirTags and AirPods, Tile, Matter and Improv pairing, and any MAC you list. Everything is off by default.

The numbers, from about 70 proxies feeding Bermuda and BPS/Sextant: Apple's manufacturer data is 69 percent of what a proxy hears. IRKs alone drop 56 to 66 percent of adverts. IRKs plus the Apple blocklist drop about 80 percent at the median proxy, 60 to 98 depending on what's nearby.

Why bother: less Wi-Fi and API traffic per proxy, which on a busy C3 or C6 is the difference between a node that stays connected and one that drops off. HA's Bluetooth integration gets only adverts it can use. And once the filtering is in the proxy, it works for every integration downstream, not just one.

Caveats: ESPHome 2026.10.0 or newer, ESP32 only (S3, C3, C5, C6, Ethernet tested). Blocking Apple blocks every iBeacon, so allow yours by UUID if the HA app's BLE transmitter is how you track a phone. A phone's IRK changes when it's erased or restored.

Config

Just the RSSI cut:

external_components:
  - source:
      type: git
      url: https://github.com/davidcoulson/esphome-ble-advert-filter
      ref: v2.0.3
    components: [ble_advert_filter]


bluetooth_proxy:
  active: true


ble_advert_filter:
  rssi_threshold: -80

Room tracking with your own phones (Bermuda, Private BLE Device):

ble_advert_filter:
  rssi_threshold: -80
  rssi_floor: -90
  drop_non_resolvable: true
  irks:
    - !secret irk_my_phone
    - !secret irk_my_watch
  manufacturer_blocklist:
    - 0x004C                 # Apple; your IRK-matched devices still pass
  allow_findmy: true         # AirTags and AirPods
  service_uuid_allowlist:
    - 0xFFF6                                   # Matter
    - "00467768-6228-2272-4663-277478268000"   # Improv Wi-Fi

Tracking a phone through the HA app's BLE transmitter? Add its beacon:

  allow_ibeacon:
    - uuid: "your-beacon-uuid"

The component also exposes forwarded, dropped and drop-rate sensors and a number entity for the threshold, so you can tune it from HA without reflashing. My fleet configs and a browser flasher: https://github.com/davidcoulson/esphome-ble-proxy

My wife wanted a different Home Assistant theme for her phone. I accidentally built an entire theme engine.

Started with LCARS, then built Orbits, Frost, and a bunch of other interfaces. Same Home Assistant backend, completely different navigation and controls.

Still a work in progress, but here's a look at what it's become.