It’s a GeForce 4070 ti, I don’t know much about pc repair. I looked online myself and I’ve seen mixed things whether to repair or not. I wanted to post here to see you guys’s opinion is it a loss cause or can it be our saved?

Also, the damage can only be seen on one side that’s why I sent two pictures. If you need any additional information I will try to provide it in the comments.

I am in possession of three honeywell shop lights, model SH45050Q130 (maybe still available at Home Depot, I think, but I've no receipt etc.) that do ... nothing. I have a little electronics knowledge so I've pulled one apart. I see the switch is in line between the hot line and the resistors feeding a rectifier that presumably feeds DC to the various 8 legged power conversion/controller chips. The cap presumably helps clean up the current, being next to the lamp power feeds.

the "manual" is at https://assets.wfcdn.com/dm/document/3b921210-17d6-549c-f1cb-f73f8456f2a6/2936780.pdf

The basic cord is fine, w 120V coming thru to where a second lamp can be plugged. The chain switch does function. The internal capacitor is just fine. No components are obviously damaged excepting the common (white wire) looks a bit cooked. Resisters, etc., seem well connected.

I cut off one of the plugs to the LED strips to test them directly with an adjustable DC power supply. No light was seen up to 50V DC in either polarity, either of 2 strips. Strips look perfect. Current isn't easy for me to test, so I can't be certain whether the strips are actually dead but neither showed signs of life. I'm nervous about plugging it back in to test the driver. Note that the LED feeds (red and black wires to the left) say 1A and 2A.

The board SAYS 94V... but I'd be really surprised if the modules really need that voltage to light up... at all.

Any suggestions for further troubleshooting?

Hi I was trying to repair my SMPS and found this power resistor having 0.1 ohm.

This was attached to AC bridge rectifier's negative leg.

Please help me in identifying this and its intended use ? Can the resistor fail with a short ? I thought it would usually go open, and I am not sure if I am reading bands correctly as the only value I can reach is 8.2ohm

I would in no way do any testing myself, after doing some reading on them. Is there a service online or perhaps a local place that may have ability that may be able to test something like these? TIA!

Hi everyone,

I've been working on a custom PCB for an automotive application and I'd like to get some feedback before going further with it.

The board takes the 12V supply from the car, filters and limits it, then uses a buck converter to generate 3.3V at up to 1A.

The board handles the differential speed sensor reading, calculates the fuel level from a resistive sender (3 ohms full and 61 ohms empty), and also controls a High Side Power Switch to supply power to the fuel pump.

The estimated current consumption on the 3.3V rail is around 150mA, although the buck converter is rated for 1A.

I've tried to keep the power section and the low voltage electronics properly separated, but I'm not completely sure if I've made the best choices in some areas.

A few things I'd really appreciate some feedback on:

• Does the overall schematic look good? Is there anything that stands out as a potential issue?
• Are the copper regions and their sizes adequate for the expected currents?
• Is there enough copper area around the power components for heat dissipation?
• Would you make the 3.3V power branch wider overall, considering the estimated current is only around 150mA?

I'm especially interested in any issues I might have overlooked, since this will be used in a car and I know the 12V supply can be pretty harsh.

Any suggestions or criticism are welcome. Thanks!

Dear community,

in preparation to put new (radial) capacitors onto the board I'm soldering on, I wanted to prepare the solder pads and lightly tin them before I solder the capacitors onto the pads.

Can I ask you for advice if you think I did a good job? Is it maybe too much solder? This is my first time doing this.

Thank you for your guidance!

I bought this novi stars doll second hand for super cheap, and the battery compartment was corroded, i tried to clean it and turns out the wires have come loose, i dont know how to fix it and would really like some help please! i know nothing other than basic stuff from highschool.

For my PCB I want a modern step down IC to convert 24V into 5V. Ideally a max of 5A output , and something like 30V input. (With 24V regular input, I would rather not use one that can only go up to 24V)

I did my own research, and found the DIODES AP64500SP-13 and LMR51450SDRRR. Both do what I am looking for, but at 1.83€ per piece the AP64500 is expensive, while the LMR comes in a WSON-12 package that might be a pain to solder.

I resigned myself to trying my luck with the WSON, but maybe I missed an IC that would be more appropriate?

The PCB is for a few hobby projects, where I am powering 5V devices. For now it will just be used to power an LED strip. An STM32 would be powered indirectly, here I am planning to use an LDO to step down the 5V to 3.3V. There won't be a large volume of PCBs, just the minimum quantity.

I bought this (15/12W) led tube and want to make it flicker (optionally dim) using an Arduino. My 2 (3) options were replacing the switch with a solid state relay and doing it on the 230v side or attaching it to my 24 v low voltage section of my neon ledstrip*

(i could theoretically add a MOSFET in the "low voltage" side now that it's uncovered, and keep the tubes original driver... but that would require me to "break" the second led tube open as well)

I want to avoid the surge chat gpt told me about (i don't understand it completely)

The first option is pretty self-explanatory, just change the switch for a relais and keep 3 mains for my complete setup (last picture)

Option 2 (i measured the tubes inlet to be 74V) would be to stepup 24v coming from my power supply of the blue sign to apparently 74V (this sounds expensive tho) and have a mosfet control flickering on the low voltage side (this would allow for dimming as wel apparently)

Last option would be to connect a mosfet between the 2 lines on the 74V side of the strip, which i uncovered by cutting the fixture open.

I currently do not know nor fully understand what chatgpt means by constant current vs constant amperage or if the "low voltage lines" are disconnected from the mains 230V...

What sounds like the most durable option? I want to keep everything as safe and !fireproof! As possible. I don't know the A of the tube, it created a lil spark when stupidly connecting the multimeter in parralel which is apparently not the way...

Thanks so much in advance! :)

Hi everyone! I’m new here and I was wondering if you guys could help me with seeing if there’s a schematic out somewhere for this soldering kit my professor got us for a project. We need a schematic but weren’t taught how to reverse engineer haha, and I’d be willing to do so but it would take up a majority of my project time. If anyone knows a website that would be so helpful, or even make one for me.. just kidding. But any help is appreciated! I’ll put some photos below of the kit. (Other side of manual is in German) I already emailed the manufacturer but I’m not confident they’ll respond.

This is part of the battery contact for a Sony Walkman. I repair them and often when batteries leak this piece is destroyed / super corroded (the one pictured is a good one for reference, not one that I'd want to replace).

I've used all the tricks to clean them and sometimes apply conductive paint afterward. But I'm wondering if there are any shops that would be able to take this part and recreate it (ideally also do the nickel plating too) in a batch of 100 or so.

I don't even know where to start looking or if this is even a reasonable thing to pursue, but I am curious so any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Feel dumb for asking, did an interview and was asked to name all of the components in a schematic. Did that successfully, but then was asked to name what the components made up. Drew a blank... in this case it was a choke. Hadn't thought of one at that level in years. Anyone know of a source that can help as a reference/review for things like that? TIA.

Hi I can't find this part anywhere. It looks like I will have to try to fix it on my own. I need some hints please.

Thanks

Im new in this kind of things but I have a magneto sistem an arcade board of 87 that have the games in disquettes, it haves somthing withe in it and I don't now how to fix it, I would apreciete help about how to fix the board, and how to remove that thing. Thanks.

I bought a dead Samsung 990 Pro 4TB really cheap as a repair project. The SSD currently doesn’t work/detect.
While comparing the PCB to photos of a working 990 Pro 4TB, I noticed what looks like a tiny SMD capacitor missing near the Pascal controller (marked with the red arrow in the reference photo).
Does anyone know what this capacitor is/value it should be, or have a 990 Pro 4TB board they could measure for me?
Also curious whether this missing component alone could prevent the drive from initializing.
I have a multimeter and soldering/rework equipment, so I can take measurements if needed.

Pins 23 and 24 are definitely open. Surrounding pads have (questionable) continuity.

I have 0.05mm thick conductive tape and 0.06mm enamelled wire. All the gear required for a fix.

So far I've exposed the line further up with a dremel and tinned the pads. I've tried the 0.06mm wire but oh boy does that require a very steady hand and lots of patience. And trying to cut a thin enough piece of copper tape to fit between each pad is super difficult.

I have a microscope and can keep trying with the above solutions, just wondering if anybody else has any more practical ideas?

This is an ideapad 5 15ARE05 it suddenly stopped charging but still took 19V, while probing around with voltage on the board i accidentally started voltage measuring with the probes on current but the setting still on voltage, now it only takes 5V and i can only seem to get around 2.3 volts on the chip i measure 5V at DT2 in but then lose it completely and am getting frustrated with nog understanding this properly would anyone be able to give me some guidance as where to check for something now?

i've got a quicko t12, and now i barely ever touch my ancient weller.

my quicko branded tips are from aliexpress and i think they might be crap. they certainly don't seem to wet as nicely as the weller...

so i figure better tips might help... but hakko ones are like half the price the iron cost - is there a decent middle ground?

and how could i tell if the tips i have are actually bad or not?

I'm a total beginner, I just started learning. Basically, I have two questions:
- Why did the green part of the RGB LED break?
- How did you, the expert, figure it out? Basically, I don't only want to know the reason, I'd also like to understand what to look for in a circuit to identify a problem.

About the circuit:

It's a "just for fun" project where the two banks of potentiometers on the right side encode two RGB values. The switch in the center controls the relays on the left side, which pick either the top or bottom bank of potentiometers. Note that the wire color matches the color channel, i.e. from left to right, it's red, green, blue. The RGB has a 5.1k Ohm resistor on the common cathode, so I would have thought this could be save, given that it is powered. by a simple 9V battery.

I broke two RGB LEDs so far (both no longer do green), I would have thought that the 5.1k resistor would prevent this. What did I do wrong and how to tell?

I tried replacing my joysticks, probably screwed something up since it’s my first time, not sure what the problem would be, I don’t think there’s any solder where there shouldn’t be, the only thing is the missing solder pad on one of the 14 pins, also can flux cause things to not work properly?

Hey everyone,
I’ve been working on a bench prototype for a custom multi-node piezoelectric matrix. The goal is to utilize it for structural telemetry and micro-scale kinetic energy harvesting—essentially mapping multi-axis physical stress profiles while capturing the energy from those mechanical impacts.
The early telemetry data looks promising, but as I scale the node array, I'm keeping a close eye on signal degradation and potential cross-talk between high-frequency parallel streams.
Without giving away proprietary architecture details, I'm curious how others here approach signal conditioning and voltage threshold security before the data streams into an analog-to-digital converter. For anyone who has worked with dense array layout telemetry, do you find it more efficient to handle signal filtration purely at the localized node level, or multiplex the raw signal out to a dedicated central processing array?
Looking forward to hearing how you've handled similar multi-axis hardware hurdles

need a smaller pair of side/flush cutters mainly for pcb work, component leads and thin copper wire and im trying not to buy another cheap pair that goes dull or doesnt close straight after few months lol. ive been looking at suppliers on europages too and some brands keep coming up, but im not sure what actually matters for fine electronics work. full flush, semi flush, jaw hardness, esd handles...theres a lot more options than i thought. anyone using these daily? do harder cutters stay sharp longer or they gets more brittle? and is carbide completely overkill for normal component leads? mostly want something small, precise and comfortable that wont leave huge sharp ends after cutting.

Got a vintage amp here(Pioneer SA750) , it's got 2 big 8200uF, 56V capacitors on the board. They are fully covered in black pvc film, both sides and top.

One is perfectly flat while the other seems to have an elastic bulge on top that I can push up and down.

Once I push the top down I can move the bulge around almost like an air bubble, if I push fully down it feels flat rather than slanted.

I've never had a problen with my amp(except for a mechanical failure of some springs, which is why I opened it in the first place.) It gets warm but never too hot, I can always put a hand on top without it being uncomfortable.

I'd really like to avoid getting to the back of the board since it's a real pain in the butt, and I don't have a multimeter with which I could check voltages at the moment.

Here's the footage link: https://imgur.com/a/xCcKebt

Is it possible that there has been uneven shrinkage of the sleeve and that's what caused the bulge?

Can I just remove the film and check?

Hi everyone!

I studied Biomedical Engineering, but honestly, most of what I learned at university was theoretical. I have almost zero hands-on experience with electronics troubleshooting or repairing circuit boards.

Over the past few months, I’ve spent quite a bit of money on online electronics courses, components, a soldering station, a bench power supply, and a bunch of other tools.

I know the basic electronic components, what they do, and how to test them with a multimeter. But when I look at an actual circuit board, I have absolutely no idea where to start!

I even bought some old DVD player, modem, and radio boards to practice on, but now they’re just sitting on my desk because I genuinely don’t know what to do with them. 😅

I really want to learn how to look at a PCB, understand what each section does, trace power paths, figure out where to measure voltages and what readings to expect, and eventually troubleshoot faults without randomly testing components.

I’ve watched tons of YouTube videos, but there are so many different approaches that I just end up feeling overwhelmed and jumping from one tutorial to another.

My goal is to become a Biomedical Equipment Technician (BMET) or Field Service Technician, and almost every job posting I’ve seen requires troubleshooting skills. Honestly, that’s the part that worries me the most because I feel like I have such a long way to go.

I’m willing to spend several hours a day practicing, and I’m hoping to make real progress within the next 1–2 months. I know I won’t become an expert in that time, but I really want to build some confidence and practical skills.

So what would you guys recommend I actually do with these boards? How do I start figuring out how a circuit works without a schematic? How can I practice troubleshooting if the boards are still working? Should I focus on reverse engineering first, or is there a better way to approach this?

If you were in my position, how would you spend the next 30–60 days practicing?

I really don’t want to buy another course or spend hours watching random YouTube videos. I just need a clear, practical direction.

I feel like I’ve bought everything I need, but I’m completely stuck on how to actually start learning.

I’d love to hear how you guys learned troubleshooting and got comfortable working with real circuit boards.

Thanks so much for any advice!

I remove that board from hard drive and I saw that black layer on it which it means got corroded I clean it with pencil eraser and ethylene alcohol but I saw that there is a silver layer under copper layer so I am asking is it Non-conductive when copper layer got corroded because it still not working