I play padel quite often and I always lose track of the score and who serves. So I built this padel watch to make the experience more enjoyable.

- E-ink
- Physical buttons
- Coin cell that can last for up to 3 years

It’s my first hardware project, so I would love your feedback

Here’s to my first day ever touching a breadboard, or even hearing about Arduino! I was given a kit by my university, so pieces are relatively easy to get. What should I do next? I’m not sure where to start as a beginner. I’m a beginner to coding as well.

Just started arranging my neopixels and a little testing including current consumption checks before my super mini ESP32’s and high-side power switches arrive.

My intention is to make LED Christmas lanterns for my front porch that are battery powered and can be controlled by Dabble on my iPhone.

My initial testing is using a previous projects Arduino pro mini and IR motion detection sensor.

I have actually used all my remaining LED strip from a previous project, all 200 LED’s but I can drive it at low brightness 5-6% of maximum.

I have a little experience with raspberry pis (4b, Zero 2w), but I’m hoping to branch into Arduino.

From what I can see, an Uno, Nano, or Mega should do it, but I want to confirm if this is the case, and which of the three would be best. Any macro keyboard recommendations and/or advice are also welcome.

I’m hoping to set up a macro keyboard to play a specific recorded word when pressed. I’m setting up essentially a tiny integrated version of those communication button mats often used for various pets. I need to make one for a Barbary Dove.

From what I’ve seen, I’d need a DFPlayer and resistor, and a small speaker.

In my small amount of experience, I was doing things on an OS/ headless SSH level, so this will be a new angle for me. However, I wish for my feathered son to tell me what he wants, since I’m slow to catch on at times. Would any of the three models I’ve mentioned be able to handle it, and which do you think is best?

Has anyone here used a macro keyboard with a microcontroller board, and what were your experiences like with this? I’ll want to start with probably 3 keys and slowly expand with time, but I don’t expect to go above maybe 10 down the line.

I was thinking of using mechanical keys with lowish actuation switches, but I don’t have to get too fancy. He just needs to be able to tap a key with his beak without having to properly mash his face into it.

My YouTube channel name is ALMA Industries

Chapter 2, a home theatre, 3D printed parts, motorized projector, home decoration, and DIY electronics -- this was to add remote control of a projectors YAW-TILT-ROLL-ZOOM axes (4DOF). More for run than anything else -- full video is on my youtube channel.

Hello, I could really use some help with this, I've been trying to figure out how to do it and had some help from AI. I couldnt really figure out what’s wrong with it a few tweaks makes both LED light up, sometimes it lights up red, sometimes yellow. The light energy either says 1023 or 0. I cant quite pinpoint where im making mistake at.

This is what I need to do:

An Arduino circuit in Tinkercad using a photoresistor, red LED, yellow LED, and piezo buzzer, where the red LED blinks continuously when the photoresistor reading is below 300. When the reading reaches 300 or higher, the red LED turns OFF, the yellow LED turns ON, and the buzzer produces a warning sound.

Thank you.
i would trade my life to get this done. lol.

This keeps coming up in help threads, so here's a short write-up of the non-blocking timer pattern and the mistakes I see most.

unsigned long last = 0;
const unsigned long interval = 500;

void loop() {
  unsigned long now = millis();
  if (now - last >= interval) {
    last += interval;   // or: last = now;
    // do the thing
  }
}

1. Compare with subtraction, not addition. if (now - last >= interval) keeps working when millis() rolls over after about 49.7 days, because unsigned subtraction wraps correctly. if (now >= last + interval) breaks right at the rollover.

2. Use unsigned long for the stored time. If last is an int (16-bit on an Uno), it goes negative after about 32 seconds and the timing gets weird.

3. last += interval vs last = now. += keeps a steady cadence with no drift, which is nice for blinking or sampling at a fixed rate. last = now guarantees at least interval between runs, which is safer if loop() can stall longer than one interval (otherwise += fires several times back to back to catch up).

4. One timestamp per task. Each thing you want to time gets its own last and interval, and you never need delay() for any of them.

5. micros() works the same way. It rolls over after about 71 minutes, and on 16 MHz AVR boards its resolution is 4 µs.

Hope it saves someone a debugging session.

At work we test boards on the bench for hours, and the serial output is our record of what happened. Seeing it on screen was never the problem. Getting all of it into a file was.

Copying out of the monitor works for a few minutes, not a few hours. When a board reset or the cable got knocked, the end of the log was missing, and that's usually the part you need. And the long runs made files so big the editor struggled to open them.

So I built WireTrace, a serial logger that writes every line to a file with the time it arrived. The last lines still make it in when the board drops off, long logs split into files of a size you choose, and if nobody hit save, the whole session can still be saved afterwards. It also plots values like temp: 23.5 live.

Free and open source, Windows and Linux: https://github.com/TheNuanceProject/WireTrace

But I'm curious how others do it. Do you copy from the Serial Monitor, use PuTTY or CoolTerm logging, a Python script, an SD card on the board?

more to come!!

Hello I am Anchan from grade 8 and I really love electronics and robotics I want to earn money for them I have got a little money from which I wanna create a device or a product that can earn me money. I am only gonna do this in school

Hello!

I've been researching this for a while, and I'm slowly losing faith that it can be done, but I figured I'd check here with people way smarter than me because I'm still quite inexperienced with Arduino.

Basically, I'm trying to make a device that can measure the positions of people in a moshpit as they move around. GPS trackers generally aren't realtime, and, because the people are confined to one room, the trackers wouldn't have enough precision to get good data. I'm also hoping to accomplish this without a camera, as the environment is very volatile and the system will have to move between venues quite often.

The closest thing that matches what I'm looking for is Pozyx, but one unit is about $5,000 according to their website, and I need about 40 units. That lands that solution WAYY out of the budget that I have (my budget is flexible, but not that flexible lol).

Is something like this even possible at a reasonable price per unit?

Made this myself after watching Paul Mcwhorter

Just showing off my digital pet project, TraumaGotchu! My main innovations on the genre are:

1. A 5-way tact toggle as the "single button", allowing for much better input and gaming than the classic 3 button layout
2. An RGB565 IPS matte screen, glare resistant and is useable in full sun.
3. Large 1500mAh battery with aggressive power saving for over 5 days of play on 1 charge, up to 1.8A fast charging

I'm super proud of the result and am already thinking about version 2 hardware-- larger screen, vibration motor, better speaker, accelerometer, internal LED, shoulder bumper buttons etcetc.

Hit me with your digital pet dream features!

hi everybody,

so, my 12 yo daughter is a self proclaimed nerd and she really wants to learn how to code and especially how to makes things ; like, she likes Scratch and tries to learn some Python by herself (even though my brother says it’s useless because of AI 😆), but she’s also into making things with her hands and not only the computer. She already did a Circuitmess project, small soldering projects from Amazon like making a small alarm clock or a spinning sunflower, keyring with small leds, also some stuff with a microbit, this kind of things. The science kits for kids are definitely too easy for her now, I can’t help her at all and her dad is not in the picture! So I’ve been looking for something that could be complete with clear projects and explanations and as many components inside as possible so we don’t have to look for each one for each project. The Arduino starter kit seems nice. But from what I understand you build on a plastic plaque and there is no soldering ? but you can buy extra plaques to make them durable?

Any advice if this is a good idea for a Christmas present? or any other suggestion? Remember, you’re talking to someone who knows absolutely nothing about electronics, so I’m looking for something easy to buy and with a lot of play and learning in it!

thanks a lot!

So I continued my dreaded pid project after no ardunos or IMUs worked together (after weeks, 2 arduinos and 3 MPU6050s i gave up) with an M5stack. Both in the arduino IDE and UIFlow I could finally read angles from the now built in imu and PWM signals from my rc rx.

(Just for my Ego I also got both to work on an arduino but the IMU data gave up again after a day of working and the PWM reading was far to slow and unprecise for my application.) Did I mention I want to stabelize an rc plane with that? yeah.

Yesterday great progress was made, as I both got gyro and accelerometer data to work (should not be an achievement but for how much I couldnt get it to work on an arduino micro with an MPU6050 it definetly felt like it).

I can also decode PWM now reasonably fast wich is awesome.

But now for my question:

I have a way to decode PWM, the IMU data and the way to calculate allat together. But how should I connect the hardware?

quick wiring diagram:

I have tried to do it by making something like a perf board shield for the m5 but that didnt work because of spacial constraints.

Soldering it up by cable also seems very chaotic. How would you do it? I dont really have the means to make a pcb...

Thanks for your help!

After a day or two of frustration with LVGL, I tried the lovyanGFX library instead with my 7" ESP32S3 display. However, it's as rough around the edges as TFT_eSPI is. Yes, it works, and the demos work, but it's not eye candy.

So, back to the LVGL-verse and another attempt to get some examples working. However...

Of course, I must have something installed in the wrong place, although I followed their (and AI's) instructions to the letter. Or... I guess not. The error shown came out of another .h that it did find.

So, does anyone have a Rosetta Stone that will magically and clearly explain how to at least get the examples to work? Using Arduino 2.3.10 on a Mac Mini M2 Pro, not that it makes any difference, I guess.

At least I know I can get TFT_eSPI-like graphics on the display, and I may have to bite the bullet and just port my plain-Jane dashboard in its visual entirety to the ESP32 7" boat anchor.

I recently won a 4GB Arduino Uno Q and wanted to hear some project ideas or things you guys have built with one!

I’ve used some esp32s and Raspberry Pi’s before so I’m not quite sure where this device lives in that mix or when I would use it.

I am trying to build the classic JawDuino project (I think it was developed around 2014?)

Original creator is here: (https://buttonbanger.com/?page_id=137), pdf of the hookup is here (https://buttonbanger.com/downloads/jawduino/jawduino.pdf).

I found this excellent tutorial (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rVZTHBohRo) for the wiring on YouTube, but annoyingly, he doesn't show the jaw linkage and holds the skull just out of frame when mentioning it.

I guess the creator thought this step was so easy that there was no need to walk through the mounting, but I'm not exactly sure what to do next. I've got the board, sound monitor, and servo all hooked up. Lights flash along with sound output as expected. But how do I get the servo connected to the jaw? I bought the ball links listed in the pdf, but the picture of the final linkage is too blurry to see anything. So right now, I've got a board with a bunch of cables and flashing lights and a skull with the top cut off, but no idea how to actually finish the project.

Any help is much appreciated! Thank you in advance!

I don't have any coding or programming knowledge. I'm a super beginner and I've never deconstructed anything except for maybe some Lego builds. I bought a dollar store digital pet and am thinking of starting with that as a deconstruction/learning project. Any guidance is appreciated and I want to know what materials I should begin with (a sort of starter kit perhaps?). Also looking for a good app or software to make pixel art as well as guides. I have a laptop and a 3d printer as well as blender3D downloaded but they're just sitting there building dust cause I don't know where to begin.

Problem:

I'm part of a team of amateur athletes who compete in Olympic weightlifting. I would like to measure the displacement of the barbell path to assess the technical quality of our training.

To simplify, the goal is for the barbell to only have vertical displacement along the z axis, with no horizontal displacement or rotation around other axes.

Similar products:

• There is gpath which visualize the kind of device I had in mind,
• There is FLEXX which seems to have everything I need and uses some kind of laser meter, but is bulky, hard to source and does not contain all the metrics I want

Question:

• Is it feasible to use a high precision gyroscope to measure the displacement of the barbell?
• Which kind of gyroscope or sensor would you suggest?
• Maybe I could use two sensors, one on each side of the barbell, to increase precision?

Hello All! I need a product recommendation based on the project idea below. I would be open to recommendations of Arduino, Raspberry Pi, ESP32 or some other small microcontroller.

Programming should be simple with a WYSIWYG or other graphic interface, if at all possible, but I can deal with modifying some copy and paste coding if I had to.

Thanks ahead of time

Project specs and needs:

- This will control a contact closure switch with an input and an output.
- It should be able to recognize if the contact is closed or open upon booting.
- SHould be able to have TWO programs, able to be switched. An LED indicator bulb, or a 7 segment display would indicate the program as selected (1 or 2; on/off; red/green - whatever)
- I foresee that it will have 4 GPIO connections. Input +/- and output +/-.
- The programming would do the following:
+ If 1&2 are OPEN, then 3&4 are also open; if 1&2 are closed, so are 3&4
+ If 1&2 are CLOSED, then 3&4 are open. if 1&2 are closed, then 3&4 are open.
+ thise would happen in real time, recognizing the open/closed status of the associated switch
- I would preferred to have an indicator light showing program #2 as activated - It would be great if I could switch the "programs" with a 3PDT or similar type of switch
- ***IT (the microcontroller) MUST BE SMALL. Like 2x3 inches MAX. I want to put it into a custom foot pedal casing.

Any suggestions?

PS - for the actual application - I want a pedal that I can plug a keyboard sustain pedal into that with the flip of a switch will change it from a standard "sustain" function to a "hold" function where it releases upon another press of the pedal. I created one that has this functionality, but required me to completely rewire a pedal. I want a portable footswitch version that I can plug ANY sustain pedal into and create this functionality without having to bend over and manually change the pedal, if it already has an incorporated polarity switch. By reversing the polarity (which is not quite an accurate description), the functionality changes from sustain to hold.

For a project i have connected several sensors to my esp32 (4 sensors to be precise). I have noticed that whenever i try to upload the code to my esp, some error comes up, however if i remove some sensors and connect only 1 or 2 sensors everything works fine. How do I move ahead with my project since i need to collect data from the 4 sensors?

The error i get is: Wrong boot mode detected (Ox13)! The chip needs to be in download mode. (And yes pressing the boot button doesn't help)