Built this for the question that comes up in a lot of measurement threads: which peaks and dips are modes, which are SBIR, and which are worth EQ versus treatment.

Input is REW's text export plus the room dimensions and speaker and seat positions. It predicts axial, tangential and oblique modes up to 300 Hz and the boundary nulls from the positions, matches the measured features to them, and classifies each one as EQ-fixable, partly fixable or not fixable. Add the RT60 export and it sizes an absorption package (Sabine, published coefficients for 100 mm mineral wool) and gives first-reflection positions from mirror geometry.

It assumes a rigid rectangular room, so openings and coupled spaces aren't modelled, and boundary nulls use the simple quarter-wavelength geometry.

Free, runs in the browser, nothing uploaded: https://www.rewexplained.space

I made it. Counter-examples are what I'm after: a dip it calls a cancellation that EQ fixed for you, or a mode it missed.

Hi all. After having treated my room with acoustic panels (mostly in the listening/first reflection points, then straddled on the lateral and back ceiling corners of my room) I find myself to not have anymore room for any acoustic treatment. But I still want to make something useful of a what would be a fully reflective back wall by making it a plywood accent wall. I will attach a picture of what I’m thinking about, and yes, it is from chatgpt, it’s the only way I could visualize my concept. It is very much confusing but think of it as putting slats following a binary code.
The code I’m talking about is the diffuser calculator I found on some forums a while ago.
The plan would be to have 2 main thicknesses of plywood.
The thicker plywood, not only serves as “framing” but also as the diffuser itself, while the slimmer slats are going to be what would have been the absorber material, except they are reflective, but still, I think it could be way better than having a concrete wall just completely reflecting.
Why can’t I put anymore absorbers?
It takes me a lot of space that I really don’t have and the wall that I would be treating is at the head of my bed and the bed can only move by another 2cm maximum.
The final question is: could this actually work?

My couch sits right in a 40 Hz null. Move a few feet toward the TV and the bass comes back. Apparently, my coffee table gets better bass than I do.

I got tired of measuring one spot at a time, so I ended up building a little iOS app to map how bass changes across the room at different frequencies.

I experimented with several speaker and subwoofer placements. The video compares two of them: my original stereo setup with deep nulls around 40 and 60 Hz, and two subs along the left wall, which gave me a much more even response. Not exactly where I expected them to end up.

These are actual measurements, not simulations, so all the quirks of my room are part of the results.

If you're curious, I've shared both measurements online, where you can explore different frequencies and compare the setups in your browser. No app or sign-up required:

https://bassmap.app/r/0XNz5uHlKLmG8bES7ZP28g

Full disclosure: I built BassMap. It uses the iPhone's LiDAR to map the room and its mic to measure bass. The maps show relative differences, not absolute SPL.

Would genuinely appreciate feedback, especially from anyone experienced with REW or room measurements.

If I put mlv over my windows would it help lessen the bass noise from my wonderful neighbors? I'm thinking magnet strips down the wall and magnets to help keep the mlv flat.

If I put mlv over my windows would it help lessen the bass noise from my wonderful neighbors? I'm thinking magnet strips down the wall and magnets to help keep the mlv flat.

Completely new to acoustics but Ive always wanted a home theater so that’s what I designed. I heard you can overtreat a room though.

Working for an acoustic consultancy in the UK and got an urgent need to hire a sound intensity kit. Unfortunately our two usual suppliers (equipment hire companies) are both unable to help. Does anyone ( i.e. other consultancies) have a kit they would be willing to hire out to us? It will need to be in calibration. Alternatively, does anyone know where we might be able to hire a kit from? Any ideas and input would be greatly appreciated

Hi, we have an issue with upstairs tenants noise coming through. The ceiling space is floorboards, beams and plaster, no insulation between.
I need some cost effective solutions please.
Pic 1&2 is the main area, pic 3&4 is a back room where it seems to be worse.

Hi all, I come to you looking for some advice on whether my plan to 'soundproof' the party wall in my end terrace house is up to scratch.

For context, 1904 Edwardian end terrace. Party wall is two bricks thick with lime plaster on my side. I am seeking to reduce airborne noise, mainly I can hear conversations from next door and likewise they must be able to hear mine. I am currently doing a back-to-brick renovation, so can go as in-depth as required. It's worth noting that my house is only 10ft 3" wide, so space is an issue.

At the start of the works, and when I was greener, I took the advice of a plasterer and dot-and-dabbed blue 'soundproof' plasterboard to the party wall in one of the rooms. This has not worked whatsoever and has prompted me to research into this.

The plan I have is as follows:
- 10mm air gap
- 63mm timber stud w/ 50mm Rockwool RWA45
- 2 layers of 12.5mm blue acoustic board

Total wall build up ~100mm.

I'll be replacing floor joists (most have rotten) and will ensure they are isolated away from the party wall where possible. I also intend to put a strip of rockwool in the floor against the party wall. Will be filling any gaps if/when I find them too.

I understand no system would be perfect, and I'm willing to put in the effort, but just trying not to make any silly mistakes or spend on things unnecessarily.

Would appreciate any and all advice!

Due to noise complaints at concerts in our youth center, we have to find a solution to make the concert room as soundproof as possible to the outside.It is not possible for us to permanently attach anything to the ceiling, walls or floor in any way, since the building is under monument protection.

The wall is about 1.5m thick but reduces by 1m where the windows are. The recesses in the wall go from the floor to almost the ceiling. I would like to place the insulation in these recesses.

What makes the whole thing even more difficult are the following limitations: removing the insulating walls has to work quick and easy, preferably with handles so that they are quickly mounted.

In addition, we can not use materials that are easily flammable (fire protection class B1, flame retardant building materials, according to German DIN 4102-1)

Im new to the acoustics and sound proofing thing, please feel free to go easy on me!

anyone tried sonaroom 3d acoustic simolator yet? I'm interested in hearing feedback from sound engineers and acousticians who have tested it, especially regarding its room-acoustic predictions, treatment simulations, and accuracy against real-world measurements. Your honest feedback would be appreciated. https://sonaroom.alphabellsystems.com/

I made an iPhone app📱for sound analysis: Resonote. Its for acousticians, sound engineers and musicians. 🎻

What it does:
- Live spectrum and spectrogram (log, linear or piano axis), narrowband or 1/1 to 1/12 octave bands, with a choice of window. 📊
- Tap a peak to see its frequency and note, and hear it as a pure tone.
- Sound level meter with A, C and Z weighting, Leq, Lmax and L90, and calibration for a measurement mic. 🎙️
- Reverb time (EDT, T20, T30 per octave) from a hand clap. 👏
- Tuner for 35 instruments, from guitar to timpani, which recognizes the instruments timbre.

For spectrum and levels it does much of what the paid pro apps do, following the IEC and ISO standards, but it stays easy to use. No account, no ads.

Its one of the first versions, only for iOS, and still free. I keep working on it and would like to extend it based on what people need, so questions and feature requests are very welcome.

Downloads, shares + App Store reviews are much appreciated.

Download link:

https://apps.apple.com/nl/app/resonote-spectrum-analyzer/id6804463455?l=en-GB

I recently changed my home theatre EQ to this at the measured position. I tried adding more of a gentle slope of bass gain to 100Hz to match the Harman target curve, but it sounds bad. Even a little boost to 60Hz starts sounding bad. Gemini mentions a transition from pitch sensation to pressure sensation and torso natural frequencies at around 60Hz. Anyone know if this is a general phenomenon, or just my personal taste?

More info. This is the measured response at the listening position in an approx 6x6m room.

Im planning on soundproofing/damping 2 of the 3 interior bathroom walls, which are currently just studs. Im soundproofing/damping the wall between the bathroom/bedroom and the wall between the bathroom/kitchen. The wall between the hall and bathroom with remain unproofed. If I were to add MLV to 2 of the interior walls, would that potentially trap moisture?

The assembly would be, from the inside of the bathroom, paint, drywall, MLV, studs, drywall, paint.

The ceilings and exterior walls will be insulated with open cell spray foam. The single remaining interior wall will be just drywall, studs and paint. The bathroom will have an exhaust fan.

My fear is moisture being trapped between the MLV/paint layers. Am I overthinking?

Thanks in advance.

Sorry for the mess im sorting through stuff at the moment.

Im curious how I can make it easier on my wife in the other room when im playing games or on calls with people in here.

On the other side of that door is the end of a hallway then directly adjacent to that is our bedroom. I work nights so I game late at night and have to be very quiet. I cant play my riding sim as the pedals and shifter are too loud and I can live with that but it would be nice to do everything I can to mitigate as much noise as possible.

Do those Amazon foam panels actually work? The do kinda look like butt though, something fairly good looking would be nice so my wife doesn't hate it.

Any info i can get on this would be greatly appreciated.

Please help! I hope it's okay that I posted this in r/soundproof too.

Do those head-only "sound-proofed" pods/canopies actually work?

I'm disabled with a chronic illness and need to nap during the day. Unfortunately due to past events, I have PTSD so I struggle with hypervigilance and get panic spikes at certain sounds.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me if these pod things work in the sense of really blocking or at least significantly lessening noise from outside my house?

And could I attach a small speaker to either side to play low rain sounds to help myself to rest? I'd only need to use it during my daytime nap/rest.

Thank you for any help!

Thats the design plan of our hostel, community center, community garden and animal rescue

The common area/ community center has a conversation pit and we will have couches, tables, chairs, bean bags, etc; and there is no wall separating the community kitchen, so basically people will be talking everywhere not just the convo pit

The convo pit is about 3ft below the ground

People will be talking and we wanted to make it so that people can have conversations and not have as much noise travel to people in different areas

The entire building is concrete block, floor is concrete but we will put 5mm commercial luxury vinyl plan on it

We arent worried about the bedrooms as thats simpler to make quiet, its just the main area where people will gather to talk, play board games, cook, etc;

The ceilings are 12 ft and the final size will prob be 9ft so we can hide the air ducts

I've been experiencing a persistent low-frequency humming noise around 120 Hz in my apartment since mid-September. It sounds like a motor or fan running, with a brief startup sound that gets louder over a few seconds before settling into a steady hum. Sometimes it runs continuously for hours, and occasionally it disappears for days. I've also noticed two recurring on/off patterns: running for about 30 minutes followed by a 2-minute pause, or running for about 2 minutes followed by a 15-minute pause, although it doesn't always follow these patterns.

The noise seems to come from the wall shared with my neighboring unit. When I put my ear against the wall, it's strongest near the window and gradually gets weaker toward the kitchen. The section of the exterior wall connected to the shared wall also carries the sound, while the section on the other side of the window does not. The noise can also be louder, even farther away from the shared wall. My heating vent is on the shared wall, but testing it produced a different sound. The building manager hasn't been able to identify its source and has suggested curtains or acoustic foam instead.

I've been trying to figure out what might be causing this but haven't been able to narrow it down. Does anyone have any ideas about what kind of equipment could produce a 120 Hz hum with these operating patterns? I'd also appreciate any suggestions for identifying the source or reducing the noise.